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  1. #26
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    Okay Guys, I'm a happy bunny at last. The fixing kit arrived, is now installed, and hopefully I'll never need to do the passenger regulator again. I had a few issues along the way - it took ages to get the plastic rivets out, one of which I had to cut with a hacksaw! Also the top of the door card with the 2 metal clips didn't come off with the panel, so I removed all the (useless) staples and glued it back together.

    Big thanks to the OP of this thread (thanks Bob ) I've added my own pics to show the fixing kit which cost $79 including the pliers and tape plus shipping. It was a bit fiddly to do but got there in the end, I'm not sure why they supply 2 long and 2 short screws, 4 long ones made the job much easier

    Anyway, here's a video of the faulty window before starting so you can see what the symptoms are



    The repair kit

    IMG_0212.jpg

    My faulty regulator, you can see in the bottom left where the plastic tube had come out of it's joint (note also the holes in the plastic corners of the regulator, they serve no purpose, but the metal fixing bracket uses these - so why did Dodge not do this simple bracket at the factory?? - it would have saved a lot of warranty claims and busted regulators

    IMG_0219.jpg

    After removing the 3 screws on the motor bracket, disassemble, fit the repair kit, then replace the motor screws. Use the screws and nuts to fix the ends - notice that one side is 'face up', the other is 'face down' as per the instructions supplied) The metal fixing bracket is supplied flat, so the pliers are used to bend the ends where the screws go.

    IMG_0225.jpg

    Wrap the electrical tape round the metal fixing bracket and the window regulator tube at both ends

    IMG_0226.jpg IMG_0227.jpg

    Now the fix is complete, it was still hard to get the assembly back in the door, but you can afford to be quite rough with it as the metal makes it (hopefully) impossible to snap the plastic tubing.
    Last edited by sonicbloo; 07-14-2019 at 03:09 PM.

  2. #27
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    Finally here are a couple of pictures of the metal clip which holds the front of the window glass to the regulator, just to make things clearer.

    IMG_0229.jpg

    and this is where it fits, I practised on the garage floor before putting it back in the car

    IMG_0230 (2).jpg

  3. #28
    A big thanks to both 01bigsapphirebob and sonicbloo, gave me the courage to try tackling this and everything works great except at the last 1 or so inches when rolling window up it makes a rattling sound, like it is rubbing on something and getting slightly stuck. Anyone else experience this? I've readjusted the window a little and it still does it. Other than that, it does fine when the door is closed and everything.

    As far as the repair kit, I felt like it was a bit jankity and if I had to do it all over I would probably spring for the new regulator instead. And I might still if I can't get this rattle resolved.

    Also, upon inspection, my plastic sleeve on the regulator was not cracked or broken anywhere that I could see, but it was making the same noises as sonicbloo's in the video.

    A few pics from my installation:

    I tried to get pics of where the metal tabs were to help others out bc I had a heck of time finding the front one. It felt like it was pushed further down.

    20190724_194422.jpg


    Here's a side view, peeping in from where the top rivet was:

    20190724_194121.jpg


    Pic of the door handle cable, gives you an idea of how you need to wrangle it around to get it out of it's slot:

    20190724_195724.jpg


    Pic of getting the regulator out, I just shoved a small bit out the top and it came out pretty easy:

    20190724_204217.jpg


    See how the repair kit doesn't quite match the bend in my sleeve? Not sure if others have the same issue or not, but it bothered me:

    20190724_211618.jpg
    2008 VVO Viper | ACR-X Headers | Hi-Flow Cats | Smooth Tubes | Arrow PCM | Gen V Intake

  4. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by v10CodeMonkey View Post
    A big thanks to both 01bigsapphirebob and sonicbloo, gave me the courage to try tackling this and everything works great except at the last 1 or so inches when rolling window up it makes a rattling sound, like it is rubbing on something and getting slightly stuck. Anyone else experience this? I've readjusted the window a little and it still does it. Other than that, it does fine when the door is closed and everything.]
    Could the window be catching on one of the nuts that is supplied with the repair kit? Mine was - so I removed it and inserted it the other way round so the nut was on the opposite side. I'm glad I tried it before putting the door panel back on

    Don't worry about the repair kit not quite following the shape of the plastic tube, it shouldn't matter

  5. #30
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    Bumping this old thread. Awesome write ups. I ordered a new actuator more than a year ago. Months after that I found out about the repair kit. Assembled the repair kid ahead of time and today finally installed it.

    Here are my take awaya:
    -def test the window before assembling the door card. One of the repair kit nuts was hitting the window bracket. I hat to flip the nut orientation and gently pry the metal reinforcement of the repair kit towards the middle of the car.
    -while in there I placed a bunch if sound deadening. My door slipped/sagged, so had to adjust the door to get everything to line up again.

    Thanks for all who posted ahead of time to make this a breeze.

  6. #31
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    This was very helpful, I had that bad groan as the glass traveled the uppermost inch of travel. I ordered the stainless steel "spine" but otherwise the project is as described.

    Some added hints:
    The first three plastic rivets-push the center in and it releases the same as if you could pull it out.
    The instructions dont highlight this, but I removed the outer plastic rub strip also (the small screws are accessible through holes in the door.) This provides more space to poke the front tube of the regulator upwards.
    The stainless spine worked for me, nothing had broken and the noise was the plastic tube rotating in the housing. With the support, it's quiet.
    Be more forceful when installing the spine assisted regulator.

    This is one of those projects that takes 90 minutes the first time and 30 minutes the next time.

  7. #32
    Thanks so much for this thread. Made all the difference. I guess I should have read all the posts as I just see where Tom above told me how to remove the pop rivets. Well, I destroyed a couple before I figured it out!!!!

  8. #33
    [QUOTE=01sapphirebob;254404]

    So first things first, open your door. :P

    Next, There are three pop rivets in the door. You'll need to remove them.



    First of all, thanks a lot for documenting and posting this... Extremely helpful... Gave me the courage to try and tackle it on my own!!

    I did the first step successfully... i.e. "open the door" 😃

    And now I am stuck at step 2... Taking the rivets out!

    What's the best way to take them out?? Is there a special tool for this? Does the whole thing come out or just the outer part?

    It's halfway out but despite pulling it quite hard, it's not coming out.

    Appreciate any help!!

  9. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Raheel View Post
    What's the best way to take them out?? Is there a special tool for this? Does the whole thing come out or just the outer part?

    It's halfway out but despite pulling it quite hard, it's not coming out.

    Appreciate any help!!
    That center circle pulls out first, maybe 1/2", and unlocks the rivet. Pry with a little screwwdriver.
    Last edited by Old School; 2 Weeks Ago at 04:26 PM.

  10. #35
    Enthusiast Steve M's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Old School View Post
    That center circle pulls out first, maybe 1/2", and unlocks the rivet. Pry with a little screwwdriver.
    Negative...push it IN first, then you can remove the outer circle. To reinstall, the big circle goes in first, followed by the center pin, pushed in until it is flush.
    2008 SRT-10 Coupe - Venom Red Metallic w/ White Stripes
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  11. #36
    Quote Originally Posted by Steve M View Post
    Negative...push it IN first, then you can remove the outer circle. To reinstall, the big circle goes in first, followed by the center pin, pushed in until it is flush.
    Thanks for your help!!

    Just got it out. You have to push it in first and then remove the the big circle.

    Thanks again. You guys are awesome!!

  12. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve M View Post
    Negative...push it IN first, then you can remove the outer circle. To reinstall, the big circle goes in first, followed by the center pin, pushed in until it is flush.
    Yep, this is correct, been a few years since I released one (wasn't even a Viper).

  13. #38
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    Bob -

    Many thanks for taking the time to take pictures and develop a step by step procedure regarding the window regulator replacement. Also a note of appreciation to FrgMstr, sonicbloo, V10CodeMonkey, Zubik and others for the helpful hints. There is no way I would have attempted this task without this great tutorial.

    I almost hate to admit but it took me several hours over 2 days to remove/repair/replace my window regulator. I even made up some new cuss words during the process! But I learned a ton from the experience and will be ready to tackle the other side should the need arise.

    Thanks again!!!


 
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