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  1. #1
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    DIY Window Regulator Install GEN IV

    Alright so, a few weeks ago my pass. side window regulator decided to go bad. I was rolling the window up and a heard a loud "POP." I was still able to move the window up and down BUT it would either roll up too high or down too far. So that can only mean one thing...replacement of the regulator. I know people have done this in the past and I have read contless horror stories about this job. My experience went really well actually. I tried to take lots of pictures since everywhere I researched there were none for this job. Especilly when it came to removing the door panel and the dreaded two clips at the top of the panel.

    Tools needed

    -Phillips head screw driver
    -10 mm socket wrench
    -Pliers
    -Bourbon to celebrate with when completed.


    I can't stress enough, give yourself time to do this job. It's not something you want to rush. From those that I talked to I've heard them say it took them just over two hours to do both sides of their cars! It's not a race. Especially when it come to this job. There are three pieces that I would say are pretty delicate and also crucial to this job. The clips on the top of the door panel, the window, and the regulator. So take your time. If I had to add it up I probably did this job in a matter of two hours over a few days.

    So first things first, open your door. :P

    Next, There are three pop rivets in the door. You'll need to remove them.



    From there you can start to remove all the various screws that hold the interior panel to the door. This will include removing the speaker and the grab handle on the door. There are two screws underneath the handle that need to be removed.











    You will need to disconnect the speaker.



    There is one screw I forgot to take a picture of. It is located to the left of the one that is behind the door handle.

    After all those screws we come to the fun part. The part that everyone fears....the two clips at the top of the door panel. Here they are...







    So This is the picture I'm going to show you on how to free this panel from the door.



    Heres what you need to do at this point. If you'll notice my hand, it's at the bottom of the panel. What you'll want to do is reach into the door between the panel and the door itself. Then move your hand towards the top of the door. Use your index finger to try and find the "seam" where the plastic piece that holds those two clips is and where it meets the weatherstripping of the door. Run your finger along that "seam." You should feel a metal clip. Thats where you want to be. The clips are finger pressure sensitive. Simply push on the clip with your finger and the panel should pop up. If it doesn't, push from the bottom of the door panel very gently while pushing on the clip. That should free the panel. Do the rear clip first, then do the front clip.

    Once you have that done you will need to disconnect a couple cables from the door and disconnect the door handle cable.



    The door handle cable also needs to be removed. Just pry it up and it will pop out. The cable is held in by a "T" bar. I recommed popping the cable out first.

    Now the window needs to come out.



    When you look at this image you will see a metal clip. That needs to be removed to free the front part of the window. The new regulator you purchase SHOULD have a clip with it but hang on to the old one just in case.

    You will also need to remove these two 10 mm bolts seen in the holes in the door. This will free the window.



    It may take a little muscle to free the window from the door. Just take you time.

    Now, remove the vapor barrier.



    Now you can remove all the various 10 mm bolts that hold the old regulator in the door. DO NOT remove the one bold in the first image that has a brass backing.







    Last edited by 01sapphirebob; 10-12-2016 at 11:29 PM.
    '01 Sapphire RT/10. '08 Snakeskin Green Vert. "H" spokes, Grey/Black interior, Graphite bezels, NAV, Full Belanger exhaust w/ Hi-Flows, ARROW PCM and Quaife rear end with 3.55's. http://www.westernreservevipers.com

  2. #2
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    You can now disconnect the old regulator from it's power source.



    Now comes the scariest part of this whole install. Putting in the new regulator. When I first looked at this I thought to myself...Theres no *&%$ing way this is going in here without it breaking as I broke the old one getting it out of the door. BUT, if you take your time it will get into the door.

    You want to start off by taking the front part of the regulator and slide it through the hole in the door as far as you can while the back end of the regulator is pointed towards the ground.



    Then you want to start putting the regulator motor in. While doing this, you are going to want to and put the front part of the regulator through the slit in the door for the window. Like so...





    Looks scary as hell but it works.

    Then you will have to put the back end of the regulator in. The top side of it must go in first. Unfortunately this is the best image I have of this part.



    At this point you've done it! You got the regulator in. Now it's pretty much just the reverse of what you just did. I did NOT have to do a relearn procudure once I got everything hooked back up. Mine worked correctly right out of the gate. I hope this helps some folks that try to tackle this job themselves.
    '01 Sapphire RT/10. '08 Snakeskin Green Vert. "H" spokes, Grey/Black interior, Graphite bezels, NAV, Full Belanger exhaust w/ Hi-Flows, ARROW PCM and Quaife rear end with 3.55's. http://www.westernreservevipers.com

  3. #3
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    Not that I own a later Gen Car, but just wanted to thank you for taking the time to record what you were doing and taking photos, its things like this that make this place and Club a great place to be

  4. #4
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    Great pics, thanks for sharing, although hopefully I won't ever need to refer to it

  5. #5
    Scott Grayson
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fatboy 18 View Post
    Not that I own a later Gen Car, but just wanted to thank you for taking the time to record what you were doing and taking photos, its things like this that make this place and Club a great place to be
    ABSOLUTELY! WOW! Major effort Bob! Thank you.

    Quote Originally Posted by 01sapphirebob View Post

    Tools needed

    -Phillips head screw driver
    -10 mm socket wrench
    -Pliers
    -Bourbon to celebrate with when completed.

    Ahem ... you forgot to state the brand and amount of Bourbon! Negates the entire thread!
    Last edited by City; 10-13-2016 at 05:07 PM.
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  6. #6
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    Subscribed and many thanks!
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  7. #7
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    Thanks for typing this up and adding pictures Bob!

  8. #8
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    Thanks for the comments everyone! Hopefully this helps someone out down the road.

    City.... Three fingers worth of Makers 46
    '01 Sapphire RT/10. '08 Snakeskin Green Vert. "H" spokes, Grey/Black interior, Graphite bezels, NAV, Full Belanger exhaust w/ Hi-Flows, ARROW PCM and Quaife rear end with 3.55's. http://www.westernreservevipers.com

  9. #9
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    i wonder if this is the same process on the gen 5? I'm thinking i will be replacing my passenger regulator on my 14 soon.. SMDH
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by poptarts View Post
    i wonder if this is the same process on the gen 5? I'm thinking i will be replacing my passenger regulator on my 14 soon.. SMDH
    Likely the only difference will be the door panel.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by LATAMUD View Post
    Likely the only difference will be the door panel.
    thats what I'm thinking also.
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  12. #12
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    Great write up - and great explanation of getting to those PIA spring clips that hold the top of the door panel in place. Critical piece to remember is to NOT FORCE the new regulator into the door. As shown above, snake the front portion of the regulator out of the top of the door opening to allow for enough room to get the rear support in through the opening.
    2009 Vert/Coupe Rear End. Intake/Head/Exhaust. 705 crank/614 Wheels. Custom Red Drivers Stripe. ACR Splitter. KW Shocks. Plastidipped 6 spokes.

  13. #13
    Enthusiast FrgMstr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 01sapphirebob View Post
    Alright so, a few weeks ago my pass. side window regulator decided to go bad. I was rolling the window up and a heard a loud "POP."
    Thanks for the writeup. Great directions. Still broke the POS window trim. But I did not break the new regulator going in!

    I also took this picture to show you exactly where these clips are after I broke off the panel. Thought it might help some of you guys find those in the future. I was not 100% from the instructions above. The manual actually calls for a slimjim type tool to reach in from the top an disengage these.

    Window Clips.jpg
    Last edited by FrgMstr; 07-15-2017 at 06:20 PM.
    As long as it is not yellow.

  14. #14
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    Thanks very helpful. Now where the best deal to get the assembly's

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by FrgMstr View Post
    Thanks for the writeup. Great directions. Still broke the POS window trim. But I did not break the new regulator going in!

    I also took this picture to show you exactly where these clips are after I broke off the panel. Thought it might help some of you guys find those in the future. I was not 100% from the instructions above. The manual actually calls for a slimjim type tool to reach in from the top an disengage these.

    Window Clips.jpg
    Bummer that the panel still broke. That pic should be very helpful though. I cannot tell you how many times I reread what I had typed to see if it made sense. LOL

    Quote Originally Posted by ssgsnake View Post
    Thanks very helpful. Now where the best deal to get the assembly's
    I got my regulator from Jon B. Came in a box three times the size of the regulator. LOL
    '01 Sapphire RT/10. '08 Snakeskin Green Vert. "H" spokes, Grey/Black interior, Graphite bezels, NAV, Full Belanger exhaust w/ Hi-Flows, ARROW PCM and Quaife rear end with 3.55's. http://www.westernreservevipers.com

  16. #16
    Enthusiast FrgMstr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 01sapphirebob View Post
    Bummer that the panel still broke. That pic should be very helpful though. I cannot tell you how many times I reread what I had typed to see if it made sense. LOL



    I got my regulator from Jon B. Came in a box three times the size of the regulator. LOL
    A little bit of Gorilla glue and some clamps made it whole again.

    As for the part, I bought it elsewhere and when it got here I was very worried it was damaged. But at a good price.

    Trim.jpg

    IMG_20170619_145151.jpg IMG_20170619_145134.jpg
    As long as it is not yellow.

  17. #17
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    I need to give a huge thanks to the OP for this thread! I did my passenger side window regulator last night with absolutely no incidents.
    2010 ACR absolutely stock

  18. #18
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    How much was the regulator? I might have to do this in the future................
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  19. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by 99RT10 View Post
    How much was the regulator? I might have to do this in the future................
    I don't remember for a fact, but I believe they're right around $250 now.

  20. #20
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    Regulator
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    From Moparpartscorp.com
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  21. #21
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    One word on the clips that hold the top on. Like OP said do rear first then front. You can feel them under the weather strip and if you close your eyes you will feel two sharp tabs with a sharp tab just lower than them in the middle. Push on that middle sharp tab until you feel the clip heading up. You will know what I mean when you do the first one. I didn’t even come close to having to put upward pressure on the panel once I figured out the clips.

    LOL one word!
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