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  1. #1
    Enthusiast Hammer's Avatar
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    Intermittent GenIII bogging

    A few weeks ago, was driving my car home from getting my oil changed. The roads were wet, it began sputtering, power loss and stuff like that. Press the gas down, car was very sluggish and then would get a surge of power for a couple seconds and then act up again.

    I changed the battery out for a new one since it seemed to be acting up. Dropping below 12V quickly when car was on ACC. Dropping down to 12V while driving as well.

    Anyways, didn't really have the problem for a little bit but it's appeared again. Drove fine for the last few days/weeks but Tuesday it did it again on my way home. I was putting the car away and decided I'd go for a little drive again and see what was going on. It didn't to it again.

    Another drive, it was running fine and then started acting up again. Passenger side seems to be the issue? That side is doing some backfiring/popping whenever the issue is present. (aside from the regular pops upon decel.)

    Any suggestions? I'm guessing plugs/wires are definitely one suggestion. I JUST changed the plugs yesterday, some of them were pretty rough looking. (Car has 86,000kms on it, its the first time I've changed them since I bought it with 48,000kms.)

    Here are the plugs. Driver side on left, Passenger on right. (The missing plug from that pic is pictured in the next pic)

    As you can see, the rear-most plug on the passenger side was quite wet.


    I'm not getting a CEL or anything when it happens... I tried an OBD-II reader but it wouldn't link up with the car. Not sure it will bring anything up anyways since the car doesn't appear to be throwing any codes.

    The issue happened again today after installing the new plugs too.


    Some history of the car...
    I bought it with stock cats and the Mopar/Borla 2.5" Exhaust on it.

    I added a K&N intake a few years ago and changed the Exhaust to Primary cats only with straight pipes.

    Last fall I gutted the Primary cats, installed new downstream O2 sensors. Got a CEL so I installed 2 spark plug non-foulers in each of those O2 sensors and haven't had the CEL since.

    The car still seems to run as well as ever when the problem isn't present. Pulls strong and fast.

    Anyone run into any problems like this? Any suggestions? I know plug wires should be changed, even though they appear visually alright. I don't want to tackle that job and there are no Viper techs nearby really.
    Last edited by Hammer; 06-18-2017 at 10:54 PM.

  2. #2
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    / some of those plugs look oil fouled

  3. #3
    Enthusiast Hammer's Avatar
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    I would have to agree with that statement!

  4. #4
    Enthusiast Steve M's Avatar
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    Those plugs are jacked...is that porcelain cracked/flaked off? They look like something violent is going on in the combustion chamber, and I'd be worried about what the pistons looked like.
    2008 SRT-10 Coupe - Venom Red Metallic w/ White Stripes
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  5. #5
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    Replace the plug wires and coil packs. Have too take off the intake manifold, so it's best to do both while your in there.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve M View Post
    Those plugs are jacked...is that porcelain cracked/flaked off? They look like something violent is going on in the combustion chamber, and I'd be worried about what the pistons looked like.
    no that's carbon from oil burned on the plug

  7. #7
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    What is your voltage gauge doing while having this happen?

    If you were seeing less than 12V while driving, you may have a charging system issue. Low voltage definitely will cause this, and yes, the passenger side will drop out first due to the coil design.

    Those plugs are WAY overdue to be replaced too. That is not porcelain damage, that is buildup flaking off that should not have been allowed to build up in the first place!
    Dan Lesser
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  8. #8
    Enthusiast Hammer's Avatar
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    Dan, I originally seemed to recall the voltage dropping when the issue first occurred. (Almost seemed as if turning on the A/C or turning up my stereo would cause it to drop and the issue to occur)

    That battery had been going dead very quickly. I could turn stereo on and the battery light would light up within seconds so I replaced the battery.

    After I replaced the battery, I don't think I recall seeing the voltage drop when the issue occurs but I will have to keep an eye on that.

    I do still suspect there may be SOMETHING fucky with the charging system. I pulled the car out of the garage a couple of weeks ago, turned it off and washed it. Started it up and the voltage was low, battery light came on. Then it shot right up to 14 again.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hammer View Post
    Dan, I originally seemed to recall the voltage dropping when the issue first occurred. (Almost seemed as if turning on the A/C or turning up my stereo would cause it to drop and the issue to occur)

    That battery had been going dead very quickly. I could turn stereo on and the battery light would light up within seconds so I replaced the battery.

    After I replaced the battery, I don't think I recall seeing the voltage drop when the issue occurs but I will have to keep an eye on that.

    I do still suspect there may be SOMETHING fucky with the charging system. I pulled the car out of the garage a couple of weeks ago, turned it off and washed it. Started it up and the voltage was low, battery light came on. Then it shot right up to 14 again.
    Almost no question, there is something going on with your charging system.

    Check battery connections, alternator connections, starter lug connection to start. If you find anything loose, post up. Beyond that, you need to check the Field Control wiring, but that takes a bit of know-how. Lastly, its either going to be a PCM or Alternator failure.
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  10. #10
    Enthusiast Hammer's Avatar
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    Thanks Dan, greatly appreciate your help! I plan to look into what I can tomorrow afternoon/evening!

  11. #11
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    Thought I would post up a little update to this.

    We originally thought it seemed like fire or ground causing the issue. Dan reinforced that theory here.

    I replaced the battery a few weeks ago as I mentioned earlier in the post. I completely overlooked/ignored the shape of my ground cable when doing so.

    The other day after washing the car, I popped off the panel covering the battery in the trunk and took a look at it. Pretty rough shape, quite embarrassing really. :/



    I replaced it with a new one and have driven the car as much as I could since. I haven't had the issue show up again. I'm cautiously optimistic that my ground cable was the cause of my issues. Keeping my fingers and toes crossed!

    Also, the fuse for "power out" was blown. That was why I couldn't get the OBD Reader to link up to the car. Replaced that a few days ago but there were no codes to be found.
    Last edited by Hammer; 06-27-2017 at 07:03 PM.

  12. #12
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    Great news, Brad!
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  13. #13
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    For what its worth, that does not look like an OEM cable either... grab a new factory part. Secondly, make sure the battery isn't leaking at the post, because that is what caused that to happen.
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  14. #14
    Enthusiast Hammer's Avatar
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    Problem re-appeared today after logging about 350kms over the past week or so.

    I have also noticed the passenger side exhaust is quieter and not as much exhaust pressure being expelled. (There are no cats on the car to be clogged up either.)


    That may not have been a factory cable but it DOES have a factory sticker wrapped around it with the proper part number.


    I would venture to guess the negative battery terminal 2 batteries ago was leaking. (The positive terminal on that battery leaked bad enough to eat the entire positive terminal.)

    I have a brand new battery in the car now.

  15. #15
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    Sounds like the passenger side is misfiring. This is the first side to fail when coils are on their way out, or when voltage starts to drop.

    Is the voltage still dropping? Or just the hesitation aspect?
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  16. #16
    Enthusiast Hammer's Avatar
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    I tried to watch for the voltage dropping when the issue occurred tonight. I didn't really see much change. It's hovering right around 14 for the most part. Wouldn't say I seen it go any less than what I'd estimate to be about 13.5.

    As I said, it was the first time in about 350kms that I've felt the strong hesitation again. It was only for a couple of minutes and went away again.

    HOWEVER... I have been kind of questioning myself at times if the car seemed a bit sluggish the last few days too. It just didn't quite seem like it was 100% but the strong hesitation & random popping from the passenger-side exhaust wasn't present so I had been just been chalking it up to paranoia.

    Also, the difference in exhaust pressure is present even when the car doesn't appear to be having the obvious hesitation and popping from the exhaust.
    Last edited by Hammer; 07-01-2017 at 03:34 AM.

  17. #17
    I had a similar issue. Mine ended up being the downstream O2, driverside. When the problem first started it didn't throw a code but after awhile it did. Just something else to consider. Good luck!

  18. #18
    Enthusiast Hammer's Avatar
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    I just replaced my downstream O2's last fall. I'm not ruling that possibility out though. They threw a code because I am catless but they may not throw a code now because of the sparkplug non-foulers I have them in. (Haven't had a CEL since)

  19. #19
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    If I was to guess, the Passenger side converter is now failing. "Chicken or egg" scenario at this point as to what caused what. Also check exhaust manifold for cracks, G3 is notorious for failures, and they will cause converter issues as well.
    Dan Lesser
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  20. #20
    Enthusiast Hammer's Avatar
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    I don't have any cats Dan. I have heard about the manifolds cracking though, I'll have to look into that!

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by SatinBlueG3 View Post
    I had a similar issue. Mine ended up being the downstream O2, driverside. When the problem first started it didn't throw a code but after awhile it did. Just something else to consider. Good luck!
    Downstream O2 sensors only check for cat efficiency, won't cause a drivability issue.


 

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