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  1. #1
    Enthusiast ACR_Matt's Avatar
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    Official Gen II ACR Thread

    The other gens have their ACR threads, thought it was overdue that we have one as well. They may not have all of the aerodynamic goodies of the later gens but they have their place in Viper lore. Here's my 2000 ACR, 1 of 22 for the US market. 3 of her sisters went to Canada.
    IMG_7417.jpg
    IMG_7530.jpg
    IMG_7546.jpg
    IMG_7279.jpg
    2000 GTS ACR - Red & Silver

  2. #2
    VOA Mamba Member
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    1999 GTS ACR
    1 of 699 GTS'
    1 of 215 ACR's
    1 of 36 in Viper Red (PRN)
    1 of 14 with Silver Stripes (QA9)

    2,348 miles as of today

    Phang.jpg
    Brian
    98 Ronzello PVP Pilot GT2
    99 ACR

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  3. #3
    Enthusiast ACR_Matt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Viperenvy View Post
    1999 GTS ACR
    1 of 699 GTS'
    1 of 215 ACR's
    1 of 36 in Viper Red (PRN)
    1 of 14 with Silver Stripes (QA9)

    2,348 miles as of today
    Outstanding ACR. Gotta love those low production numbers! Is yours part of the comfort group or one of the rare "Hardcore" cars?
    2000 GTS ACR - Red & Silver

  4. #4
    Enthusiast Fatboy 18's Avatar
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    Seriously, 2 and 1/2 thousand miles! Either stick in in a museum and buy another GTS or Use the thing! These cars were made to be driven, I've done over 50k in my car and it's simply the best times I have ever had. its measured in Smiles Per Gallon.
    You honestly don't know what your missing

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Viperenvy View Post
    1999 GTS ACR
    1 of 699 GTS'
    1 of 215 ACR's
    1 of 36 in Viper Red (PRN)
    1 of 14 with Silver Stripes (QA9)

    2,348 miles as of today

    Phang.jpg
    130 miles per year. If you are just going to look at it a full size picture would have been cheaper and easier to store.
    2015 Comp Blue TA 2.0 #001

  6. #6
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    Your car do what you like with it. Drive the pi$$ out of it or put it in a bubble whatever floats your boat.

    Anywho, here is a pic that belongs in any Gen II ACR thread

    rdelete.JPG

  7. #7
    Heres my 1999 ACR with silver stripes... the black is just vinyl wrap on top. I believe 1 of 14 is that correct guys? ACR_MATT, I LOVE that rear wing... currently saving for it and I'm going to have it carbon fiber hydro dipped. Also, where did you get those side door carbon fiber pillars from? Can you post more pics of your rear diffuser also? Thank you!
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Venomess; 01-05-2018 at 11:56 AM.
    -1999 GTS ACR 1 of 14, longtubes, no cats, no resonators, Borla Stingers, Xpipe, smooth tubes, short throw shifter
    -1990 300zx LSx/T56 swap, built, forged, twin 61mm, E85 900+rwhp -1993 MKIV Supra

  8. #8
    Enthusiast GTS Dean's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Viperenvy View Post
    1999 GTS ACR
    2,348 miles as of today
    Phang.jpg
    Good God man! Lower those spring perches!!!!

  9. #9
    Man, all the cars posted so far have enviable hood/fascia gap. Maybe I need an ACR after all.

  10. #10
    Enthusiast ACR_Matt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Venomess View Post
    Heres my 1999 ACR with silver stripes... the black is just vinyl wrap on top. I believe 1 of 14 is that correct guys? ACR_MATT, I LOVE that rear wing... currently saving for it and I'm going to have it carbon fiber hydro dipped. Also, where did you get those side door carbon fiber pillars from? Can you post more pics of your rear diffuser also? Thank you!
    Looks awesome! Yes, 14 Red/silver ACRs were produced in 1999. I think that's the lowest production year for Red/silver ACRs. Thank you, it's one of my favorite mods along with the carbon fiber door covers. I like those little mods that most people wouldn't be able to tell it wasn't OEM the best. The door covers were custom made by a guy in Chicago. Does excellent work. Also did the interior emergency release cover for me in matte carbon fiber. The diffuser blades were made by KNG SNK but I don't think he's in the Viper world any longer. I'd like a proper diffuser for it ACR-E style but there's isn't one commercial available that I like, so I'm planning on making my own.
    IMG_7542.jpg
    IMG_7143.jpg
    2000 GTS ACR - Red & Silver

  11. #11
    Enthusiast ACR_Matt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Viperenvy View Post
    Hey hey hey - slow down there Skippy. Just bought the bad boy in September. right now its 11 degree with snow everywhere.

    That being said, I am thinking of selling my other to get a "I don't care about the mileage car." To Mr 46hemi's point - I love just sitting in the garage with a beer.

    Who else has a GEN II ACR? Need someone else you guys can pick on
    I always thought if your car didn't make you wanna just sit and stare at it, you bought the wrong car. I've certainly spent more than one evening just hanging out admiring mine lol.. Cheers!
    2000 GTS ACR - Red & Silver

  12. #12
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    If you are interested to know - I put this together from a couple of sources of information - mostly IVR and what Jeff put together. I propbably have some of the numbers off just a bit as I copied them over onto I sheet I made for myself. Its close enough.

    1999 215 built (1,248 Vipers, 549 R/T10, 699 GTS)
    (1,047 US, 498/ 51/0 R/T10, 594/72/78 GTS US/Can/Foreign)
    Red 36 – 22 mono, 14 stripe
    Silver 81 – 51 mono, 30 stripe
    Black 98 – 53 mono, 45 stripe

    2000 218 built
    Red 60 – 35 mono, 25 stripe
    Steel 85 – 39 mono, 46 stripe
    Gray
    Black 73 – 39 mono, 34 stripe

    2001 227 Built
    Red 60 – 31 mono, 29 stripe
    Yellow 89 – 38 mono, 51 stripe
    Sapphire 77 – 28 mono, 49 stripe

    2002 159 Built
    Red 79 – 28 mono, 51 stripe – 34 Final Edition
    Yellow 40 – 14 mono, 26 stripe
    Graphite 39 – 17 mono, 22 stripe
    Metallic
    BLUE – 1 STRIPES

    Red Silver 85 / 819 10.4%
    Red White 34 / 819 4.2%
    Silver Bluel 30 /819 3.7%
    Black Silver l 79 / 819 9.6%
    Steel Gray Silver 46 / 819 5.6%
    Yellow Black 77 / 819 9.5%
    Sapphire Silver 49 / 819 6.1%
    Graphite Silver 22 / 819 2.7% 51.6%


    Red Mono 116 / 819 14.2%
    Silver Mono 51 / 819 6.2%
    Black Mono 92 / 819 11.4%
    Steel Gray Mono 39 / 819 4.7%
    Yellow Mono 52 / 819 6.4%
    Sapphire Mono 28 / 819 3.4%
    Graphite Mono 17 / 819 2.1% 48.4%
    Last edited by Viperenvy; 01-05-2018 at 03:08 PM.
    Brian
    98 Ronzello PVP Pilot GT2
    99 ACR

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  13. #13
    Enthusiast BrianACR's Avatar
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    Here's my '01 ACR. One of the 38(I though only 34 but who really knows??) solid yellow. The previous owner added the black vinyl stripes. Curently just under 35k miles. Sadly she sits in the garage now awaiting spring. Happily she also sits in the garage awaiting heads and cam...
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by BrianACR; 01-05-2018 at 03:58 PM.
    2001 GTS ACR Yellow with black stripes. Heads By JM, ported and polished, 2.02"& 1.6" Valves. Custom Comp Cam. JMB intake, M&M headers 3"SS + cat delete. AKA Minion. My neighbors hate me...

  14. #14

  15. #15
    Enthusiast Fatboy 18's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Viperenvy View Post
    Hey hey hey - slow down there Skippy. Just bought the bad boy in September. right now its 11 degree with snow everywhere.

    That being said, I am thinking of selling my other to get a "I don't care about the mileage car." To Mr 46hemi's point - I love just sitting in the garage with a beer.

    Who else has a GEN II ACR? Need someone else you guys can pick on
    Sorry there Brian, I just looked at when you Joined, I just presumed you had had the car a long time! My Bad. Don't get me wrong, the car looks stunning, how many previous owners?

  16. #16
    Enthusiast ACR_Matt's Avatar
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    Those are some great looking yellow ACRs! Well done Brian and BFoster! Kinda envious of those with the mono color cars. They look amazing and stripes can always be added or changed at a whim. Keep the pics coming guys! Curious what everyone's stance is on modifications. Are you keeping them as they rolled out of the showroom or going mod crazy? I'm in the latter group. Hope to do a nice NA build next year now that I have suspension and brakes sorted.
    2000 GTS ACR - Red & Silver

  17. #17
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    IMG_0429.jpg
    I purchased my 2001 ACR with 40k miles, specifically as a driver
    Tony Bates
    2001 GTS-ACR Red/Silver Stripes : 2014 Porsche Cayman S : 2010 Supercharged Jeep Rubicon Unlimited : 1974 MGB V8 : 1931 Model A Street Rod

  18. #18
    Enthusiast BrianACR's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=Viperenvy;332869]NO WORRIES - I love snarky British humor
    QUOTE]
    If that's the case, check out all Fatboys jokes in the Fun & Games section!!! Some great laughs in there!!

    Quote Originally Posted by ACR_Matt View Post
    Those are some great looking yellow ACRs! Well done Brian and BFoster! Kinda envious of those with the mono color cars. They look amazing and stripes can always be added or changed at a whim. Keep the pics coming guys! Curious what everyone's stance is on modifications. Are you keeping them as they rolled out of the showroom or going mod crazy? I'm in the latter group. Hope to do a nice NA build next year now that I have suspension and brakes sorted.
    I'm going mods Have M&M headers, 3", no cats, and just a resonator at the back. Currently in the middle of getting heads rebuilt and cam. Should be back on the road in April, just in time for the snow to go away!
    Last edited by BrianACR; 01-05-2018 at 05:06 PM.
    2001 GTS ACR Yellow with black stripes. Heads By JM, ported and polished, 2.02"& 1.6" Valves. Custom Comp Cam. JMB intake, M&M headers 3"SS + cat delete. AKA Minion. My neighbors hate me...

  19. #19
    Enthusiast ACR_Matt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BrianACR View Post
    I'm going mods Have M&M headers, 3", no cats, and just a resonator at the back. Currently in the middle of getting heads rebuilt and cam. Should be back on the road in April, just in time for the snow to go away!
    Nice! Just rebuilding the heads or giving them a little extra juice? Have a particular power goal in mind? I'm wanting to do a Gen III head swap myself. Already have a beautiful polished Gen III intake begging to be installed.
    2000 GTS ACR - Red & Silver

  20. #20
    2000 ACR. Steel Gray Pearl. Car originally built with silver stripes (1 of 46).

    Black painted stripes, powder coated BBS rims, badge delete option and Snake 530 upgrade (Belanger headers, 355 gears, TD 1.7 rockers) courtesy of Fitzgerald Motorsports, NH.

    Car sorted and maintained since 2014 by Dan Cragin and SPT. Includes polished/ported/milled heads, 708 cam, IPSO STS, more....

    14,870 miles

    Mitch _2000 Viper GTS ACR.jpg

    IMG-1688_2017.jpg

    IMG_1758.jpg

  21. #21
    Love that color!
    -1999 GTS ACR 1 of 14, longtubes, no cats, no resonators, Borla Stingers, Xpipe, smooth tubes, short throw shifter
    -1990 300zx LSx/T56 swap, built, forged, twin 61mm, E85 900+rwhp -1993 MKIV Supra

  22. #22
    Enthusiast ACR_Matt's Avatar
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    Looks awesome Mitchdob! Really like the powder coated wheels and lack of badges. Very clean!

    Black Adder, great looking ride! Red/silver ftw!
    2000 GTS ACR - Red & Silver

  23. #23
    Enthusiast ACR_Matt's Avatar
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    Part 1 of 2

    Here's some great info I've been holding onto. Its the service bulletin that went out explaining the new features of the ACR and how to install them. Hope this can help someone in the future. It sure helped me when I was repairing mine. Posting in two parts. Enjoy!

    (Sorry for the lack of exploded parts diagrams, originally it had them but its been lost in translation through the years.)


    NO: 23-36-99
    SUBJECT: ACR Viper Package - Service Information
    DATE: October 1, 1999

    OVERVIEW:
    This bulletin supplies the part numbers and repair information for the unique components to the Viper ACR package.

    DISCUSSION:
    The unique components for the Viper ACR package are:
    z Five Point Restraint System
    z ACR Decals
    z ACR Dash Plaque
    z Radio/Speaker Plugs (the ACR Viper is available without a radio or speakers.)
    z Fog Lamp Plugs
    z Suspension/Wheels
    z Air Cleaner

    PARTS REQUIRED:
    Qty Part Number Description
    AR 0LC171XBAD Panel Assy., Bulkhead
    AR 0QD06DX9AD Carpet, Front Floor Right
    AR 0QD07DX9AF Carpet, Front Floor Left
    AR 0QL021XBAD Panel Assy., Quarter Trim Right
    AR 0QL031XBAD Panel Assy., Quarter Trim Left
    AR 0QS021X7AN Panel Assy., Door Trim Right
    AR 0QS031X7AN Panel Assy., Door Trim Left
    AR 0SM12DX9AA Cap, Wheel
    AR 0SM08WD2AA Wheel, Front
    AR OSM08WD2AA Wheel, Rear
    AR 0SZ22CA1AA Decal, ACR Hood
    AR 0SZ22SBBAA Decal, ACR Hood
    AR 05015296AA Fascia, Front (Unpainted)
    AR 0SZ301A9AA Fascia, Front (Bright Silver W/Blue Stripe)
    AR 0SZ301RNAA Fascia, Front (Red W/Bright Silver Stripe)
    AR 0SZ301X3AA Fascia, Front (Black W/Bright Silver Stripe)
    AR 04865448AA Cover, Fog Lamp Filler
    AR 05245172 Adapter, Fog Lamp Fascia Front
    AR 0SZ28DX9AA Carpet, Assembly
    AR 0TG89DX9AA Bezel, Radio Delete
    AR 04854436AA Plate, Speaker Delete
    AR 04865432AA Cable & Grommet, Audio Antenna
    AR 05245265AC Element, Air Cleaner
    AR 04854292AA Bracket, Seat Belt
    AR 04854293AA Bracket, Seat Belt
    AR 04854438AA Belt Assy, 5 Point
    AR 04854439AA Belt Assy, 5 Point
    4 06036185AA Rubber Spacer, Latch & Buckle
    6 06036263AA Eye Bolt
    AR 06036183AA .032 Metal Spacer, Eye Bolt
    AR 06036184AA .068 Metal Spacer, Eye Bolt
    AR 04854434AA Nameplate, ACR
    AR 04854449AA Coil Over Shock Assembly (Rear) (Lft or Rht)
    AR 04854450AA Bracket, Coil Over Shock (Rear) (Lft or Rht)
    AR 05264841AA Shock Absorber, (Rear) (Lft or Rht)
    AR 05264843AA Spring, Coil Over Shock (Rear) (Lft or Rht)
    AR 05264848AA Nut, Coil Over Shock (Rear) (Lft or Rht)
    AR 05264844AA Coil Over Shock Assembly (Front) (Lft or Rht)
    AR 04865425AA Bracket Assy., Relay/Rear

    EQUIPMENT REQUIRED:
    Special Tool 8396 - Adapter (Height Fixture Gage)
    Special Tool 6914 - Height Fixture Gage

    REPAIR PROCEDURE:

    FIVE POINT RESTRAINT SYSTEM:
    ACR vehicles are equipped with two complete and separate belt systems: the conventional 3-point belt and a 5-point belt harness. The five-point belt system consists of inboard (tunnel) and outboard (door sill) lap belts, right and left
    shoulder belts, and a floor mounted anti-submarining center belt. A single latch mechanism is permanently attached to the inboard lap belt and releases all remaining belts simultaneously. The single latch mechanism is operated by turning
    a lever clockwise 90 degrees. The inboard and outboard lap belt anchorage's are shared with the conventional 3-point belt and are permanently bolted to the vehicle. The remaining three belts (right and left shoulder and floor mounted center belt) terminate with hooks and are snapped onto eyelets. These belts may be removed by unsnapping from the
    eye bolts.

    Lap Belts:
    Inboard (tunnel) side lap belt: shared with 3-point belt webbing termination plate.
    1. Move seat to the full forward position and tilt seat back full forward.
    2. Remove inboard bolt holding the 5-point and 3-point belt members on the latch side
    3. Remove the 5-point lap belt
    4. Install the new 5-point lap belt in the same position as the old one was removed. Be sure to reinsert the rubber spacer (Figure 1) between the new 5-point belt and the existing 3-point belt webbing plate.

    CAUTION: THE 5-POINT BELT SYSTEM SHOULD ALWAYS BE INBOARD OF THE 3-POINT
    SYSTEM. THE 5-POINT BELT LATCH MECHANISM RELEASE LEVER MUST POINT
    DOWNWARD (FIGURE 3).

    5. Torque the bolt holding both belts to 39.5 Nm (350 in.lbs).

    Outboard (doorsill) side: shared with 3-point buckle assembly.
    1. Move seat to forward position and tilt seat back forward.
    2. Remove inboard bolt holding the buckle side of the 5-point and 3-point belt members, (Figure 4).
    3. Remove the buckle side of the 5-point lap belt, (Figure 5).
    4. Install the new 5-point lap belt in the same position as the old one was removed. Be sure to insert the rubber spacer between the 5-point belt and the existing 3-point belt buckle.

    NOTE: TO SERVICE THE 3-POINT BELT SYSTEM. THE RUBBER SPACER (FIGURE 4) WHICH IS SUPPLIED WITH THE STANDARD 3-POINT BUCKLE ASSEMBLY MUST BE DISCARDED. IT IS REPLACED WITH THE SHORTER RUBBER SPACER (P/N 6030185AA).

    5. Torque the bolt holding both belts to 39.5 Nm (350 in.lbs).

    CAUTION: THE 5-POINT BELT SYSTEM SHOULD ALWAYS BE INBOARD OF THE 3-POINT
    SYSTEM. THE 5-POINT BELT LATCH MECHANISM RELEASE LEVER MUST POINT
    DOWNWARD, (FIGURE 3).

    Shoulder belt and eyebolt mount:
    1. Remove the four upper screws to the bulkhead trim panel.
    2. Remove the lower quarter trim panel.
    3. Unclip the shoulder belt thru the opening provided in the bulkhead and quarter trim. Feed the belt through the seat to remove. Install the new shoulder belt in the same manner as removed.
    CAUTION: IF THE SHOULDER BELT EYEBOLT MUST BE REPLACED. THE SPACER WASHERS
    PROVIDED UNDER THE EYEBOLT MUST BE RETAINED FOR REASSEMBLY WITH THE NEW
    EYELET. (FIGURE 6). THE EYELET IN THE FINAL TORQUED DOWN POSITION MUST BE
    ORIENTED IN THE FORE AND AFT DIRECTION.

    Floor mounted center belt:
    1. Unclip the floor mounted center belt to remove.

    CAUTION: IF THE FLOOR MOUNTED CENTER BELT EYEBOLT MUST BE REPLACED. THE
    SPACER WASHERS PROVIDED UNDER THE EYEBOLT MUST BE RETAINED FOR
    REASSEMBLY WITH THE NEW EYELET (FIGURE 7). THE EYELET IN THE FINAL TORQUED
    DOWN POSITION MUST BE ORIENTED IN THE FORE AND AFT DIRECTION (FIGURE 8).

    DECALS:
    All decals should be installed in the same position as the existing decal. Refer to the 1999 Viper Service Manual
    (Publication Number 81-270-9150) beginning on page 23-34 for installation instructions. Refer to Figure 9 for proper
    positioning measurements.

    ACR DASH PLAQUE:
    1. Clean any residue from the center bezel where the new dash plaque will be installed.
    2. Remove the protective strip from rear of plaque.
    3. Center the dash plaque cross car with the ash receiver and center front to rear in the space provided (Figure 10).
    Press the plaque firmly into place.

    RADIO PLUG:
    1. Remove the instrument panel center bezel (Figure 11).
    2. Remove the two screws holding the plug in place (Figure 12).
    3. Remove the plug.
    4. Replace the plug by installing the two screws.
    5. Install the instrument panel center bezel.

    SPEAKER PLUGS:
    1. Remove the three screws holding the speaker grill (Figure 13).
    2. Remove the two speaker plugs.
    3. Install the two speaker plugs and speaker grill using the three screws.

    FOG LAMP PLUGS:
    1. Remove the three screws holding the fog lamp cover adapter from the front fascia (Figure 14).
    2. Remove the fog lamp filler.
    3. Install the new fog lamp filler and adapter, torque the three screws to 1.35 Nm (12 In. lbs.).
    Last edited by ACR_Matt; 01-06-2018 at 07:02 PM.
    2000 GTS ACR - Red & Silver

  24. #24
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    Part 2 of 2

    SUSPENSION:

    CURB HEIGHT CHECKING (ACR):
    When checking curb height or design height on vehicles equipped with the ACR package, follow the procedure in the
    service manual. When you come to the steps calling for placement of the Vehicle Height Checking Fixtures, Special
    Tool 6914, on the vehicle, adapters will need to be added to the ends of the fixtures in order for them to fit the BBS
    wheels that come on the ACR vehicle. Use the following steps to attach the adapters.

    1. Place an Adapter, Special Tool 8396-1, inside the larger end of each Height Fixture (Gage), Special Tool 6914,
    aligning the adapter thumb screw with the notch in the Fixture. The beveled edges on both tools should be on the
    same side as shown in Figure 15.
    2. Tighten the thumb screws.
    3. Place an Adapter, Special Tool 8396-2, over the smaller end of each Height Fixture (Gage), Special Tool 6914,
    aligning the adapter locating pin with the notch in the Fixture. The beveled edges on both tools should be on the
    same side as shown in Figure 16.
    4. Tighten the thumb screws.
    5. Install the Vehicle Height Checking Fixtures (Gages) with the Adapters attached on the vehicle as requested in
    the standard procedure. Only when placing the tools against the very base of wheels, place the adapters against
    the wheels as shown in Figure 17 and Figure 18.
    6. Measure front and rear curb height or design height following the procedure in the service manual using the same
    height specifications as listed in the service manual.
    7. Check and set the alignment with design height weights still installed in the vehicle.

    SHOCK ASSEMBLY (ACR-FRONT) (DESCRIPTION & OPERATION)
    The ACR package available on this vehicle utilizes unique coil-over shock assemblies (Figure 19). The ACR front
    shock assembly consists of the following components:
    z Upper spring seat
    z Coil spring
    z Lower spring seat
    z Lock nut
    z Shock damper

    These shock assemblies mount basically the same as the standard shock assemblies except for the addition of two
    spacers at the mounting points, one on each side. They are there to take up the difference in width of the shock
    mounting eyes. The shock damper is supplied by Koni. It is an externally adjustable race damper.
    The ACR shock assembly functions basically the same as the standard shock assembly, except for a couple of
    differences. That being the ability to adjust damper Bump and Rebound settings and coil spring height (Figure 19).

    SHOCK ASSEMBLY (ACR-FRONT) (DISASSEMBLEY & ASSEMBLY)
    The shock assembly must be removed from the vehicle for it to be disassembled and assembled. Refer to the removal
    procedure provided in the 1999 Viper Service Manual (Publication No. 81-270-9150) beginning on page 2-26.

    DISASSEMBLY
    1. Position the shock assembly vertically in a soft jawed vise by mounting the bottom eye in the vise's jaws. Be
    careful not to damage the bearing.
    2. Using two adjustable pin spanner wrenches, one on the lower spring seat and the other on the lock nut below it,
    loosen and back off the lock nut (Figure 19).
    3. Using one of the adjustable pin spanner wrenches, rotate the lower spring seat releasing tension from the coil
    spring and upper spring seat. Continue to loosen the lock nut until the upper spring seat moves down toward the
    shock damper body approximately 10 mm. (0.4 in).
    4. Remove the snap ring from the circular lock nut below the shock damper's top eye using a pair of snap ring pliers
    (Figure 20).
    5. Remove the upper spring seat straight up over the top of the shock damper's top eye.
    6. Remove the coil spring from the shock damper.
    7. Remove the shock damper from the vise.

    ASSEMBLY

    NOTE: IF A NEW SHOCK DAMPER IS BEING INSTALLED, BE SURE TO SET THE BUMP AND
    REBOUND ADJUSTMENT DISCS TO POSITION ONE (FULL NEGATIVE). THAT IS THE FACTORY
    SETTING.

    1. Position the shock damper vertically in a soft jawed vise by mounting the bottom eye in the vise's jaws. Be
    careful not to damage the bearing.

    NOTE: THERE IS NO DESIGNATED TOP OR BOTTOM TO THE COIL SPRING. IT MAY BE
    INSTALLED EITHER END UP.

    2. Install the coil spring over the shock damper until it seats on top of the lower spring seat (Figure 19).

    NOTE: THE LOWER SPRING SEAT AND LOCK NUT MUST BE LOWERED ENOUGH ON THE
    SHOCK DAMPER BODY TO ALLOW FOR UPPER SPRING SEAT AND SNAP RING
    INSTALLATION.

    3. Install the upper spring seat over the top eye of the shock damper onto the top of the coil spring.
    4. Install the snap ring into the groove of the circular lock nut below the top eye (Figure 20).
    5. Slowly thread the lower spring seat upward aligning the upper spring seat with its normal mounting position.
    6. Continue threading the lower spring seat upward until the correct coil spring height is achieved . The factory
    spring height should be set to 232mm (9.125 in.). That is the correct distance between the upper and lower spring
    seats. Do not be alarmed if there is a small amount of free play between the spring and it's seats when setting the
    spring height to factory specifications, it is normal. (Figure 21).
    7. Once proper spring height is achieved, thread the lock nut up against the bottom of the lower spring seat.
    8. Place an adjustable pin spanner wrench on the lower spring seat to hold it in place and another on the lock nut,
    then tighten the lock nut up against the lower spring seat.
    9. Using an open end wrench on the top eye flats, align the hole in the top eye of the shock damper with that of the
    bottom eye.
    10. Remove the shock assembly from the vise.

    SHOCK ASSEMBLY (ACR-REAR) (DESCRIPTION & OPERATION)

    DESCRIPTION
    The ACR package available on this vehicle utilizes unique coil-over shock assemblies (Figure 22). The ACR rear shock
    assembly consists of the following components:
    z Upper spring seat
    z Coil spring
    z Lower spring seat
    z Lock nut
    z Shock damper
    z Clevis bracket (with threaded adapter)

    These shock assemblies mount basically the same as the standard shock assemblies except for the addition of two
    spacers, one on each side, at the upper mounting points. They are there to take up the difference in width of the shock
    mounting eyes. The shock damper is supplied by Koni. It is an externally adjustable race damper.

    OPERATION
    The ACR shock assembly functions basically the same as the standard shock assembly, except for a couple of
    differences. That being the ability to adjust damper Bump and Rebound settings, and coil spring height.

    SHOCK ASSEMBLY (ACR-REAR) (DISASSEMBLY & ASSEMBLY)
    The shock assembly must be removed from the vehicle for it to be disassembled and assembled. The removal
    procedure is provided in the 1999 Viper Service Manual (PublicationNo. 81-270-9150) beginning on page 2-66.

    DISASSEMBLY
    1. Position the shock assembly vertically in a vise by mounting the clevis bracket in the vise's jaws.
    2. If the clevis bracket needs to be separated from the shock damper, it should be loosened, but not completely
    removed at this time. To do so, place an adjustable pin spanner wrench on the lock nut below the lower spring
    seat then rotate the shock damper counterclockwise to loosen it from the clevis bracket and it's threaded adapter
    (Figure 23).
    3. Using two adjustable pin spanner wrenches, one on the lower spring seat and the other on the lock nut below it,
    loosen and back off the lock nut (Figure 23).
    4. Using one of the adjustable pin spanner wrenches, rotate the lower spring seat releasing tension from the coil
    spring and upper spring seat. Continue to loosen the lock nut until the upper spring seat moves down toward the
    shock damper body approximately 10 mm.
    5. Remove the snap ring from the circular lock nut below the shock damper's top eye using a pair of snap ring pliers
    (Figure 20).
    6. Remove the upper spring seat straight up over the top of the shock damper's top eye.
    7. Remove the coil spring from the shock damper.
    8. If the clevis bracket needs to be separated from the shock damper, remove the previously loosened shock damper
    from the clevis bracket, then remove the clevis bracket from the vise.

    ASSEMBLY

    NOTE: IF A NEW SHOCK DAMPER IS BEING INSTALLED, BE SURE TO SET THE BUMP AND
    REBOUND ADJUSTMENT DISCS TO POSITION ONE (FULL NEGATIVE). THAT IS THE FACTORY
    SETTING.

    1. If the clevis bracket has been removed from the vise or is being replaced, position it in a vise so that the shock
    damper is mounted vertically above.

    NOTE: IF THE CLEVIS BRACKET IS SEPARATE FROM THE SHOCK DAMPER, PROCEEDWITH
    THE FOLLOWING STEP, OTHERWISE PROCEED TO STEP 8.

    NOTE: CLEAN ANY USED THREAD SEALER FROM THE THREADS OF THE CLEVIS BRACKET
    THREADED ADAPTER OR THE SHOCK DAMPER BODY BEFORE APPLYING NEW SEALER.

    2. Apply Mopar Lock 'N Seal or Locktite 242 to the threads of the threaded adapter mounted in the clevis bracket.
    3. Thread the shock damper into the clevis bracket threaded adapter by hand.
    4. Thread the lock nut up against the bottom of the lower spring seat.
    5. Place an adjustable pin spanner wrench on the lower spring seat to hold it in place and another on the lock nut,
    then tighten the lock nut up against the lower spring seat.
    6. Once the lock nut and lower spring seat are tightened together, tighten the shock damper into the clevis bracket
    using an adjustable pin spanner wrench installed on the lower spring seat. Tighten it to a torque of 68 Nm (50 ft.
    lbs).
    7. Place an adjustable pin spanner wrench on the lower spring seat to hold it in place and another on the lock nut.
    Loosen the lock nut being careful not to loosen the shock damper from the clevis bracket.

    NOTE: THERE IS NO DESIGNATED TOP OR BOTTOM TO THE COIL SPRING. IT MAY BE
    INSTALLED EITHER END UP.

    8. Install the coil spring over the shock damper until it seats on top of the lower spring seat (Figure 22).

    NOTE: THE LOWER SPRING SEAT AND LOCK NUT MUST BE LOWERED ENOUGH ON THE
    SHOCK DAMPER BODY TO ALLOW FOR UPPER SPRING SEAT AND SNAP RING
    INSTALLATION.

    9. Install the upper spring seat over the top eye of the shock damper onto the top of the coil spring.
    10. Install the snap ring into the groove of the circular lock nut below the top eye (Figure 20).
    11. Slowly thread the lower spring seat upward aligning the upper spring seat with its normal mounting position.
    12. Continue threading the lower spring seat upward until the correct coil spring height is achieved . The factory
    spring height should be set to 232mm (9.125 in.). That is the correct distance between the upper and lower spring
    seats. Do not be alarmed if there is a small amount of free play between the spring and it's seats when setting the
    spring height to factory specs, it is normal. (Figure 21).
    13. Once proper spring height is achieved, thread the lock nut up against the bottom of the lower spring seat.
    14. Place an adjustable pin spanner wrench on the lower spring seat to hold it in place and another on the lock nut,
    then tighten the lock nut up against the lower spring seat.
    15. Using an open end wrench on the top eye flats, align the hole in the top eye of the shock damper with the holes in
    the clevis bracket.
    16. Remove the shock assembly from the vise and install the assembly in the vehicle.

    SHOCK DAMPER SET-UP FOR COMPETITIVE DRIVING (ACR)
    When developing a good set-up for this vehicle's dampers, keep in mind the following:
    z Make changes to the settings in small steps (1-2 clicks of the Bump and Rebound discs at a time)
    z Keep track of all changes made and their effect to the vehicle.
    z Aim for a good chassis balance first, and only then start searching for outright performance.

    BASIC DAMPER SET-UP
    1. Set all dampers to their minimum adjustment position for both Bump and Rebound (Figure 24). Refer to Bump
    and Rebound Adjustment below for information on setting Bump and Rebound discs.
    2. Carefully drive the vehicle and increase speed gradually so you can get a feeling for the vehicle.
    NOTE: AT THIS STAGE, DO NOT PAY MUCH ATTENTION TO EXCESSIVE BODY ROLL, A
    WALLOWING RIDE AND POSSIBLE LOSS OF DOWN FORCE THAT MAY OCCUR BECAUSE OF
    THIS.
    3. Increase the Bump settings by two clicks of the Bump adjusting discs at a time on all dampers.
    4. When you arrive at a Bump setting that makes the vehicle too harsh, back off the Bump setting one click.
    NOTE: FRONT AND REAR BUMP SETTINGS MAY END UP BEING DIFFERENT.
    The standard Bump settings have now been determined. Now, proceed to set the Rebound settings.
    5. Increase the Rebound settings on all dampers one or two clicks at a time. Pay special attention to changes in
    attitude of the chassis when entering corners or accelerating out of them.
    6. Continue to increase Rebound settings until the car feels precise and stable. Changes of direction or throttle
    position should not result in drastic changes of chassis attitude. Too much Rebound generally results in loss of
    grip. Too much at the front will give understeer on turn-in, while too much at the rear will result in loss of
    traction or oversteer on turn-in.
    NOTE: FRONT AND REAR REBOUND SETTINGS MAY END UP BEING DIFFERENT.
    7. Basic set-up is now complete.

    ADDITIONAL TIPS
    Remember these additional tips when setting up the vehicle.
    z When you change spring rates, expect to change your basic set-up as well.
    z A damper only functions when it moves. When the suspension stops moving due to lack of travel, the damper
    will not have any influence on handling. A wheel that runs out of Bump travel loses grip suddenly and viciously.
    z Try to stick to the balance between Bump and Rebound as found during basic set-up. If you wish to tighten
    things up, start by increasing both bump and rebound settings. Beware not to end up in a situation as described in
    the previous tip, caused by a damper dynamically jacking the suspension up and down.
    z An increase of damping forces at one end of the car will tend to make the other end of car move more.

    BUMP AND REBOUND ADJUSTMENT
    Adjusting is done by rotating the adjustment discs, located in the window of the top eye (Figure 20). To rotate the
    discs, you need a steel pin, 1.5 x 50 mm. (0.06 x 2.0 in.). A 1/16 inch drill bit or rivet works fine. The upper disc is for
    Bump (compression) adjustment (Figure 24). The lower disc is for Rebound (extension) adjustment. For both Bump
    and Rebound there are eight different positions, each with a positive stop. The discs need to be rotated 180 ° to go from
    minimum to maximum adjustment. The minimum position is referred to as position one. The maximum position is
    referred to as position eight. Rotate the discs according to the markings on the top eye. The eye is marked with a plus
    (+) and minus (-) sign, and the letters B (Bump) and R (Rebound) next to the corresponding disc.

    CAUTION: NEVER USE FORCE WHEN MAKING ADJUSTMENTS.

    SPECIFICATIONS
    ACR SHOCK ASSEMBLY FACTORY SETTINGS
    NOTE: * DISTANCE BETWEEN UPPER AND LOWER SPRINGS SEATS WITH SHOCK ASSEMBLY IN
    FULLY EXTENDED (REBOUND) POSITION. THERE MAY BE SOME FREE PLAY BETWEEN THE
    SPRING AND IT'S SEAT.

    DESCRIPTION SPECIFICATION
    Bump Position One (Full Negative)
    Rebound Position One (Full Negative)
    Spring Height* 232 mm (9.125 in.)

    Labor Op. No. Description Time
    23-13-02-90 Restraint System, Five Point; Replace - Right 0.6 Hrs.
    23-13-02-91 Restraint System, Five Point; Replace - Left 0.6 Hrs.
    23-01-18-90 Decal, Fender Side - Right 0.2 Hrs.
    23-01-18-91 Decal, Fender Side - Left 0.2 Hrs.
    23-01-18-94 Decal, Rear Fascia - Replace 0.2 Hrs.
    23-11-23-91 Plaque, Dash ACR - Replace 0.2 Hrs.
    23-10-25-91 Plug, Radio - Replace 0.2 Hrs.
    23-10-16-91 Plug, Speaker - Replace One Or Both 0.2 Hrs.
    23-02-27-90 Plug, Fog Lamps - Replace One Or Both 0.2 Hrs.
    02-15-15-97 Shocks - Rear - Replace/Suspension Set Up 3.2 Hrs.

    Code Description
    P8 New Part
    Last edited by ACR_Matt; 01-06-2018 at 01:00 PM.
    2000 GTS ACR - Red & Silver

  25. #25
    VOA Member
    since 2015
    Arizona
    drewsss's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    Valley of the Sun
    Posts
    736
    What...you wanted to see yet another yellow one?

    1 of 51 GTS ACRs built in 2001 with stripes. It just ticked over 30K miles and I plan to put on a lot more.

    http://www.theviperregistry.org/build.php

    The previous owner put in the Paxton SC, Borla, custom interior, gloss black powder-coated stock BBS wheels, and I've added IPSCO's STS and towing hooks. I also recently added Autoform's removable wing and my own splitter shaped from a GTS-R splitter template. I like the fact that I can remove the wing without any body damage.

    Next mod will be 3.55 gears...



    Last edited by drewsss; 01-06-2018 at 03:29 PM.
    2004 SRT-10 Vert, Belanger Exhaust, Hi Flow Cats, Headers
    2008 Lamborghini Gallardo Spyder, V-10, Fabspeed, 6-speed Gated Manual
    Past: 1995 & 2001 RT/10's; 2003 Vert; 2001 Paxton SC ACR (gone but not forgotten)


 
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