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  1. #1

    Stoptech BBK Fitment Issues

    I have recently purchased a stoptech BBK for both front and rear of my 2000 ACR. Upon installing the front kit, I had noticed that the the rotor is not centered betweeen the caliper. On both sides I have approximately .100" more inboard rotor-caliper clearance than on the outboard side. Have tried swapping parts between sides (rotors, brackets, even calipers) with same results. I have sent an email to stoptech and am awaiting a reply/solution, but in the meantime since I know there are a good bit of people running stoptechs on your Gen2s I thought Id post and ask if anyone has seen a similar issue? Thanks for any help.
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  2. #2
    Sent an email ?
    Why wait for that ?
    Why didn't you just call them ?
    I have the complete setup on my car, and they were very helpful when I called them.
    Super nice to deal with.
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  3. #3
    Enthusiast GTS Dean's Avatar
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    I wonder if some shim washers were left out of the package?

  4. #4
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    I did not have a clearance issue on my 2002 with ST60 front calipers and 2 piece rotors from Stoptech. There was a similar thread about rotor versus caliper clearance a while back; but, it involved stock calipers and one piece ST rotors. https://driveviper.com/forums/thread...-Brake-Caliper
    Last edited by AZTVR; 3 Days Ago at 12:46 PM.

  5. #5
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    Hard to tell from looking which direction is outboard, but you might have excess "crud" between the old wheel bearing and your new top-hat for the rotor..?? If your wheel bearing assemblies are not new, they may have a thin crust of rust/deposits from the last rotor pattern you just removed. This might be pushing your rotors out a bit?? Wire wheel and/or crocus cloth the face of the bearing assembly to get it smooth. While you are there you might check runout if you haven't already.

    Also, are the lug nuts tightened/seated in this picture?? Since there is no wheel, ensure the nuts you are using are drawing the rotor tight to the bearing. Perhaps once a wheel is on there and everything is torqued you no longer have a problem?

    Re-looking at my instruction document for the same StopTech install shows no mention of shims needed - don't remember having a problem... My 2 cents, if it helps.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blue96GTS View Post

    Also, are the lug nuts tightened/seated in this picture?? Since there is no wheel, ensure the nuts you are using are drawing the rotor tight to the bearing. Perhaps once a wheel is on there and everything is torqued you no longer have a problem?
    ^^This, no rotor will be centered until the wheel/lug nuts are tightened.
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  7. #7
    So I had a few emails back and forth with Stoptech, verifying all parts I had received in their kit were correct dimensionally. After a phone call with them this afternoon, they said that their kit was designed with the removal of the plate (they called it a dust shield, not sure its intended purpose) between the spindle and the hub. I have yet to do it ( I will update after), but Im sure this will put the rotor in the correct location. Ive attached a picture of what I am referring.
    Hub.JPG

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rxmfn7 View Post
    So I had a few emails back and forth with Stoptech, verifying all parts I had received in their kit were correct dimensionally. After a phone call with them this afternoon, they said that their kit was designed with the removal of the plate (they called it a dust shield, not sure its intended purpose) between the spindle and the hub. I have yet to do it ( I will update after), but Im sure this will put the rotor in the correct location. Ive attached a picture of what I am referring.
    Sounds like their information matches what was reported in the other thread that I linked above.
    The Factory Service Manual calls what you are pointing to a "corrosion prevention gasket" and includes the following warning in the hub installation procedure :

    from the service manual
    "CAUTION : A corrosion prevention gasket (Fig. 69)
    is used between the hub/bearing and the steering
    knuckle. The gasket is required to prevent galvanic
    corrosion between the hub/bearing and the steering
    knuckle. The corrosion prevention gasket must be
    used when installing a hub/bearing in the steering
    knuckle.
    "
    Last edited by AZTVR; 2 Days Ago at 10:16 AM.

  9. #9
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    Great product design, remove a factory installed gasket that prevents galvanic action. Sounds like a bad explanation for an error in design on Stop-techs part.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Camfab View Post
    Great product design, remove a factory installed gasket that prevents galvanic action. Sounds like a bad explanation for an error in design on Stop-techs part.
    From reading the other thread that I linked above, my understanding was that the Stoptech parts were designed to factory specifications as were other manufacturer's products. In other words, the Stoptech parts met spec. What was said was that the factory specs look like they were created for an assembly without that gasket. The way I read the parts list indicates that that gasket may not have been used before 1996; but, the parts list is not crystal clear to me.

    As I said, I had no clearance issue with the installation of my Stoptech BBK caliper and 2 piece rotor, and did not remove that gasket, and there was nothing in the instructions directing the user to remove that gasket. Additionally, in that other thread, others said they had no clearance problem either. It appears to me that the addition of the gasket by Dodge, causes a build up of tolerances issue in some combination of parts.
    Last edited by AZTVR; 2 Days Ago at 11:36 AM.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rxmfn7 View Post
    After a phone call with them this afternoon, they said that their kit was designed with the removal of the plate (they called it a dust shield, not sure its intended purpose) between the spindle and the hub. I have yet to do it ( I will update after), but Im sure this will put the rotor in the correct location. Ive attached a picture of what I am referring.
    Hub.JPG
    I believe the purpose of that shim is to isolate the aluminum upright from the cast iron and steel hub assembly from fretting and electrolysis. Those shims are only a few thousandths of an inch thick and I doubt they will significantly affect the amount of mismatch you have. I would not remove it if I were you.
    Last edited by GTS Dean; 2 Days Ago at 11:53 AM.

  12. #12
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    Given the price they charge for the kit, i would expect a perfect fit without having to modify my car.

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    Quote Originally Posted by river rat View Post
    Given the price they charge for the kit, i would expect a perfect fit without having to modify my car.
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  14. #14
    Enthusiast GTS Dean's Avatar
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    If I'm interpreting these pictures correctly, it appears that the rotors need to be rear-spaced a little bit. I'm not sure how the rotors attach to the hats, but it could be as simple as a handful of precision flat washers.

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    Quote Originally Posted by AZTVR View Post
    From reading the other thread that I linked above, my understanding was that the Stoptech parts were designed to factory specifications as were other manufacturer's products. In other words, the Stoptech parts met spec. What was said was that the factory specs look like they were created for an assembly without that gasket. The way I read the parts list indicates that that gasket may not have been used before 1996; but, the parts list is not crystal clear to me.


    As I said, I had no clearance issue with the installation of my Stoptech BBK caliper and 2 piece rotor, and did not remove that gasket, and there was nothing in the instructions directing the user to remove that gasket. Additionally, in that other thread, others said they had no clearance problem either. It appears to me that the addition of the gasket by Dodge, causes a build up of tolerances issue in some combination of parts.
    I reread that thread and now remember measuring my clearances and finding the same issue. I’d guess that you had the same situation with your old car as well. Personally, if I were coughing up the dough for a high end “upgrade” with the cars brakes, I’d want it dead on accurate. If the later cars have an issue, Stop-tech should either fix it or explain to the customer that they are doing the same shitty job as the factory. At least Racing Brake appears to have passed 4th grade machining math. Chrysler gets a fail as well for not making a production change to correct the issue as well.
    Last edited by Camfab; 2 Days Ago at 01:25 AM.

  16. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by AZTVR View Post
    From reading the other thread that I linked above, my understanding was that the Stoptech parts were designed to factory specifications as were other manufacturer's products. In other words, the Stoptech parts met spec. What was said was that the factory specs look like they were created for an assembly without that gasket. The way I read the parts list indicates that that gasket may not have been used before 1996; but, the parts list is not crystal clear to me.

    As I said, I had no clearance issue with the installation of my Stoptech BBK caliper and 2 piece rotor, and did not remove that gasket, and there was nothing in the instructions directing the user to remove that gasket. Additionally, in that other thread, others said they had no clearance problem either. It appears to me that the addition of the gasket by Dodge, causes a build up of tolerances issue in some combination of parts.
    The gasket was added because the GEN1 had iron spindles and, therefore, didn’t have the same issue with dissimilar metals. I would not remove that gasket.


 

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