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  1. #1
    VOA Mamba Member
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    Smile 1996 GTS door lights stay on and drain battery and alarm doesn t work

    I am the original owner of a 1996 GTS Viper that I service annually for oil change, etc. and I recently had the battery replaced and the 2 hatchback pistons replaced as part of the service. Everything seemed to be fine and I drove the car home and parked it for several weeks but when I tried to start the car I found the battery was almost completely dead.

    After I charged the GTS battery for about 2 hours I was able to start the car so I know the battery is not the problem. I fully charged the battery over about a 6 hour time frame and then noticed the yellow lights on the doors was turned on after I shut down the engine. The doors are closed, hood is closed and so is the hatch glass but these LED lights are still on. I seemed to remember having a similar problem when the car was new and the dealership made an adjustment to the hatch glass latch to correct this problem. What seems odd to me is the key fob will beep once when you arm the security system and the LED door lights go out but the red LED on the dash never lights during the arming. Also, the usual 2 beeps that occur after the GTS is armed does not happen so I am wondering if anyone has ever had a similar problem.

    I guess I could have a glass hatch latch adjustment needed or worse I may have a problem with the security alarm on the car. Also, since I had the battery changed is there a reset process for the electronics in the alarm that needs to be done and if so how would you do this. I have 2 key fobs and they both work at lease as I described earlier.

    Thanks for any help you might give in this matter as I would like to resolve this without another trip to the dealer if possible and I don't want to screw up the alarm system in the process.

    Cecil

  2. #2
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    LifeIsGood's Avatar
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    Steve-Indy in 3...2...1...
    2001 VRY RT/10

  3. #3
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    Without more info, sounds as though your EEM is bad. If this indeed is the case, you may find yourself "dead in the water"...as in cannot start the car.

    No...there is no battery reset procedure.

    If you ask at most CJDM parts desks, the computer will show that the entry module is out of inventory. BUT, there is a NEW part number which is 05015148AC These run about $495.00 retail.
    They do come with 2 preprogrammed fobs.
    If want to discuss this further, just give me s call 317-402-9013

    Also, Tom Sessions is in Wilmington, NC if you need a real expert to diagnose this for you.

    Finally, if you get in a bind...drive to Indy as I keep 2 of these entry modules at all times. I have made more than one "road trip" deliveries to bail out a stranded Viper Brother.
    I don't send or receive "PM's" since I prefer DIRECT communication.

  4. #4
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    Thanks for your response. My Viper will start and seems to run OK. If I use the key fob and arm the alarm, the red LED on the dash does not light and the car is not armed apparently since I can raise the hood or the hatch can be unlocked and the alarm doesn't trip. I was asking about a reset on the auto alarm as I saw a post on another web site that stated something about using the ignition key and turning the car off and on 3 times to put it into a diagnostic mode and I believe there was some discussion about resetting the alarm.

    It just seems odd that when the battery was replaced this started as I have had no issues with my car for many years other than normal maintenance. The only other thing I know that could cause the LED door lights to be on is something is not closed in the alarm sensor loop like the hood or the hatch glass. I found the hood switch but I could not find the hatch switch unless it is the one that turns off the trunk interior light that is directly below the latch of the glass.


    Thanks for your offer for help and I will contact the dealer on Monday and get a reading from the service tech that worked on my car as he has had a lot of experience working on Vipers.

    Cecil

  5. #5
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    The hatch switch is on the driver's side hatch support strut.

    A DRB III will be helpful as well.

    Let us know what dealership finds.

    By the way, it never hurts to unplug the EEM, then reconnect it as this MIGHT break up any micro corrosion on the pins...which OCCASIONALLY resolves the issues.
    Last edited by Steve-Indy; 4 Days Ago at 06:12 PM.
    I don't send or receive "PM's" since I prefer DIRECT communication.

  6. #6
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    I'll be the bold one and call out the fact that by you mentioning "I am the original owner of a 1996 GTS Viper that I service annually for oil change" on a car with a courtesy light and alarm issue that you think that the wholesomeness of being an original owner that changes his oil once a year has a damn thing to do with your problem. It doesn't. You have a 22 year old car. It's just like any other 22 year old car. Stuff breaks. Geesh. Fix it and get over it eh?
    Red. Because I didn't have to settle for blue.

  7. #7
    Enthusiast My98RT10's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dave6666 View Post
    I'll be the bold one and call out the fact that by you mentioning "I am the original owner of a 1996 GTS Viper that I service annually for oil change" on a car with a courtesy light and alarm issue that you think that the wholesomeness of being an original owner that changes his oil once a year has a damn thing to do with your problem. It doesn't. You have a 22 year old car. It's just like any other 22 year old car. Stuff breaks. Geesh. Fix it and get over it eh?
    Now this is what I call a really helpful post...

  8. #8
    VOA Mamba Member
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    My reference to being the original owner is that I have knowledge of the history of this car and I have taken very good care of it for 22 years. I am aware things break but it seems pretty coincidental that when the hatch back supports were replaced along with the battery I am now having a problem that did not exist before servicing the vehicle. Being the original owner gives me the pleasure of knowing how it has been serviced and drove the entire life of my car. Thanks for your earlier response that was of no help.

  9. #9
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    Open Hatch and manually hold the hatch switch down all the way. Have someone poke there head in the car to see if the light is out.. Do the same with the hood switch if the above test doesn't work.
    96 GTS (# 33, Bone Stock), 66 Mustang Convertible, 66 Mustang Hardtop, 69 Corvette Roadster

  10. #10
    VOA Mamba Member
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    Thanks for the information on the hatch switch and the information about the EEM module. I am not familiar with a DRB III so can you tell me what this means? Thanks again.

  11. #11
    VOA Mamba Member
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    Thanks for your suggestion on troubleshooting the hood and hatch switches. I will check these switches next week when I get home. I appreciate all of the help and suggestions that everyone has offered!

  12. #12
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    Sorry...DRB III is the Chrysler scan tool for pre-CAN bus cars...can read Gen I, II, III...and, some functions on Gen IV's.
    I don't send or receive "PM's" since I prefer DIRECT communication.


 

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