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  1. #1

    Normal operating temperature

    Had my 97 out today. Warmest day (mid 50s) that Ive driven her yet.

    The temp gauge has 3 dark lines above 190 degrees. Which line is 190? Left middle or right?

    What do the cars normally run at? Idling brought it to the line on right pretty quickly.

  2. #2
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    That's correct.

  3. #3
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    I drive my car in 110+ ambient and barely get past the that 3rd mark. Mainly because I ignore all the retarded things people do with their cooling systems and instead have addressed the fundamental issues with cooling.

    In prioritized order:

    1) Air flow
    2) Air flow
    3) Air flow
    4) A properly maintained radiator and coolant system.
    Red. Because I didn't have to settle for blue.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by dave6666 View Post
    I drive my car in 110+ ambient and barely get past the that 3rd mark. Mainly because I ignore all the retarded things people do with their cooling systems and instead have addressed the fundamental issues with cooling.

    In prioritized order:

    1) Air flow
    2) Air flow
    3) Air flow
    4) A properly maintained radiator and coolant system.
    Can you expand on this? Have you worked on ducting/ shrouding around the rad?

  5. #5
    There is no airflow when idling.

    Which of the three lines is 190?

    How high should the temp go when idling?

    Is there an auxiliary fan that kicks on at a certain temp to bring it down to a cooler temp? What temp to what temp?

  6. #6
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    GregM, sent you the answers from 97 service manual.
    I don't send or receive "PM's" since I prefer DIRECT communication.

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    For those interested, the middle of the three marks at the top of a Gen II temp gauge is the 190 F mark.

    Low speed fan turns on at207 F and off at 201 F.

    High speed fan turns on at 216 F and off at 208 F.
    I don't send or receive "PM's" since I prefer DIRECT communication.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve-Indy View Post
    For those interested, the middle of the three marks at the top of a Gen II temp gauge is the 190 F mark.

    Low speed fan turns on at207 F and off at 201 F.

    High speed fan turns on at 216 F and off at 208 F.
    I believe high speed also kicks on when A/C is turned on too? or is that temp controlled as well
    Silver '98 RT/10 6.5 Roe S/C, 1.7 HS RR's, Roe Hi-Flow Cats, B & B Headers/3" exhaust, 3.33, Eibachs, SRT front brake upgrade, Toms 40mm rear upgrade .....

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    I believe the same on the A/C...which makes for a good, quick fan test.
    I don't send or receive "PM's" since I prefer DIRECT communication.

  10. #10
    My opinion is the factory cooling set-up/gauge is very "active"( lots of gauge movement, and that concerns people)But a properly maintained(stock) car should NOT need extra cooling mods. With the low speed fan at a red light the fans kick on(around 207ish) and brings the needle/temp back down(200ish). It will continue this process if sitting still. Its my understanding that this is how the car was designed to function. fyi use Mopar parts if replacing any cooling system sensors.

  11. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by Ross L View Post
    My opinion is the factory cooling set-up/gauge is very "active"( lots of gauge movement, and that concerns people)But a properly maintained(stock) car should NOT need extra cooling mods. With the low speed fan at a red light the fans kick on(around 207ish) and brings the needle/temp back down(200ish). It will continue this process if sitting still. Its my understanding that this is how the car was designed to function. fyi use Mopar parts if replacing any cooling system sensors.
    Agreed. If you have a system without any leaks bringing in unwanted air, the stock system is perfectly fine for most applications. Air bubbles are the killer for most. The system will self-burp out the air if everything is up to snuff.

    If it makes you nervous to have temps pushing above 220, you can always have the fans kick in at a lower temperature via a PCM re-flash/tune. Dont throw a 160* thermostat and think that will take care of all problems.

    Check your true coolant overfill bottle (front bumper, passenger side. You will see a removable round rubber panel in the front wheel well, as to where you can see the bottle). Make sure that is filled to the proper level.

  12. #12
    Enthusiast Lemay88's Avatar
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    While we are on cooling system.
    I have some loovers/flaps broken on my 97 RT/10 fan shroud...well, in fact, all but one are broken.
    Beside buying a new one, what would be best??
    Shot the opening down by permantly closing the holes?

  13. #13
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    Join the throngs of folks who have hated the way the gauge appears on Gen 1 and 2s over the years. Folks have a perceived notion on where the needle should appear and once it goes to the right nerves kick in. On a very warm day it is not unusual for the needle to stay right, and keep in mind many of us who raced Gen IIs back on the late 90s or early 2000s, often saw temps on track n the 240 range. Gen IIs tend to run hotter than later models , at least based on driver's views of the gauge, but just note the info from Steve -Indy and hopefully that will relieve you anxiety. No worries in all likelihood, I think every Gen II owner worried about this needle movement and though I am sure it happened, I can't remember a specific case of a Snake overheating and dumping a motor ( though I am sure it probably happened to someone). Dodge Engineers would actually tell the guys running Viper Days , years back, that the Snake would run well at what most would consider hotter temps.
    Concierge Coordinator for Luxury and Performance Vehicles within the Woodhouse Auto Family ( now 18 Stores )

  14. #14
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    Good stuff to read here, after having my car a few months now and in Arizona I started out with some nervous drives as the needle would fluctuate in the middle three marks around the "190" mark quite quickly... any other car I had in my life if the needle moved that fast especially upward it would almost always end up in a pull over, but in normal stop and go the needle always comes back down as soon as the car moves forward again, in a long stop of traffic the needle will go to that 3/4 mark on the Guage where it would seem the fan kicks in and comes back down to the middle marks, I also absolutely agree the car performs better in the higher temp ranges and I no longer get stressed in the stop and go when the needle moves up quickly... always comes back down

  15. #15
    As usual I thank all, especially Super Steve, for the information. So middle to right line is not an issue and 2 stages of auxiliary fans... I’ll keep an eye on that gauge...

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    hook up an OBD II that can read real time data. That'll show actual temp the sensor is reading
    Silver '98 RT/10 6.5 Roe S/C, 1.7 HS RR's, Roe Hi-Flow Cats, B & B Headers/3" exhaust, 3.33, Eibachs, SRT front brake upgrade, Toms 40mm rear upgrade .....

  17. #17
    Enthusiast BLRDViper's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lemay88 View Post
    While we are on cooling system.
    I have some loovers/flaps broken on my 97 RT/10 fan shroud...well, in fact, all but one are broken.
    Beside buying a new one, what would be best??
    Shot the opening down by permantly closing the holes?
    I also had a broken (missing) flap on my 97 GTS. After a lot of searching I found a couple used ones that were in almost new condition for $10.
    Replaced the missing one. Not sure what the heck they even do. Only thing I think is they may close when there is no car movement and cooling fan comes on keeping hot air being pulled forward versus cooler air being pulled over the radiator from front of car. When the car is moving, they would open to allow more air flow accross the radiator.
    On my 01 RT I think they are just flaps made of rubber that hang over the opening.
    Maybe someone can offer some better info but I would not just close off the hole.
    BLRD
    Last edited by BLRDViper; 6 Days Ago at 08:56 AM.

  18. #18
    Enthusiast Lemay88's Avatar
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    That’s what I thought also.

  19. #19
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    My worse problem has been air in system. I hardly drive my car and have constant issues with temp spikes either to air in the system, or thermo getting stuck!

    Sometimes I find the temp gauge all the way into the red ( mine is early 93 ) while driving on the highway in cool weather. That only indicates thermo getting stuck, air in system, or just a retarded gauge

    I've given up cause bleeding it ain't that easy, need to lift the front of the car up!
    1993 Dodge Viper RT/10
    Viper Red, 6200 miles

  20. #20
    Have you tried replacing the temp sending unit? My non mopar sending unit read crazy. What about the overflow tank hidden in the fender( do 93's have this). Have you checked actual hose/radiator temp with IR gun?

  21. #21
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    This thread brings back memories. My first few (probably more like a dozen!) outings in my Gen 2 were tainted by obsessing about the temp gauge. Once I convinced myself to stop focusing on it, I enjoyed driving it much more. Go ahead, dance around ... Just stay in "X" range and I won't fret it. It wasn't easy though - But it can be done!


 

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