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  1. #1

    Looking for detailed how to change oil cooler lines on a gen 3

    I found a few things but nothing detailed for a gen 3 oil cooler line change. I bought the JTS Venom oil cooler lines for $309 and the directions that came with them are pretty basic and I'm a terrible mechanic
    https://imgur.com/phaYbYu

    I know I've read that I will need some crows feet wrenches but I am not sure what sizes? 1.25 inch and 1 inch? I put an adjustable wrench up to the new lines and it is measuring an inch for them?

    How tight do you tighten everything? As tight as you can get it cause nothing I've read talks about how tight it should be and that the OEM ones were on their super tight and hard to get off.

    step 5 in the directions say "Oil extension adapter fitting goes on line just behind belt tensioner"

    I assume what I have circled in red below is the "Oil extension adapter fitting?"
    https://imgur.com/fudJpBZ

    The blue circle is the tensioner and the blue line is the oil cooler line that goes directly behind the tensioner so I assume that line is the line I have in the above picture and that end with the adapter screws in right behind the tensioner on the engine block? or should the oil extension adapter fitting go on the end that screws into the cooler?

    https://imgur.com/haS36WU

  2. #2
    VOA Member
    since 2013
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    Joel's Avatar
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    Oct 2013
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    421
    Best I can remember about this is that I cut a few old wrenches (made them shorter) up to make it easier instead of using crow foot wrenches because there is just not much room in there. Seems to me that the adapters are for the block side but it has been a while since I did this. The Chrysler lines, once you get them off, are different fittings and you will see why they leak once you get them off and compare them with the new lines. The hardest part is to get the lines in a tight space so note the routing of the stock lines. The new fittings are AN and don't need to be super tight. They are designed to seal with snug tightening. I would recommend you call JTS and get some assistance from them. They will help you and they want you to be happy with their products. I used Dan Lesser's lines but I suspect installation is similar. There are also some old videos about line install floating around on the internet.

    https://driveviper.com/forums/thread...acement-Gen-IV
    Last edited by Joel; 4 Weeks Ago at 06:28 PM.

  3. #3
    You don't need crowsfoot - regular wrenches are fine. 1 1/4'' to remove the OEM lines and then probably 1'', 1 1/16'' and 1 1/8'' to install the new lines and fitting (depending on size of fittings in the kit ... I made my own)

    To remove the OEM lines pull back the the circle thingie on the line and then you can just unscrew the fitting. I started by unscrewing the fittings at the block, then used the box-end of the wrench to unscrew the fittings at the oil cooler

    The o-ring side of the fittings goes into the block and oil cooler adapter

    I assume the extension adapter fitting (what you've circled) is used on the bottom port on the engine. If you try to screw a 90* fitting into that port you can't, it will foul against the block. You either need a 45* fitting or to extend it out (which I assume is the purpose of the extender in the kit) and then use a 90*

    There is no torque spec for the fittings - the o-ring fittings seal on the o-ring, so just screw them in by hand and then give then a snug with the wrench.

    The AN fitting seal on the flare. Screw them together by hand, and then snug them together with a wrench.

    They just need to be tight, not gorilla tight.

  4. #4
    Enthusiast
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    Mar 2018
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    Ontario, Canada
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    Read the thread here and most of your questions should be answered.
    https://driveviper.com/forums/thread...ty-Performance
    I just did mine on a Gen 3. There is a long and a short hose that is what is important. No need for special wrenches. A lot easier without the oil pan but I went the harder route leaving it on. Mat be obvious but you will have to remove the oil filter therefore oil change at the same time. Just a long wrench should do the trick. Approximate torque is 25-35 ft-lbs, which is "decently tight" on an 8-12" wrench, and "Snug" on a 16-24". You don't want to over tighten and strip it but those are high pressure so make sure they aren't loose.
    Hope that helps


 

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