GEN 3 Gen 4 Upper Door Inside Trim reproduction

[J TNT]

Got mine installed, looks great and the new pieces are much thicker and solid compared to the stock ones. Thanks Jay.
Attachment 42349
Attachment 42350

Thanks Fatman2006 , Nice work on the Door Trim install !!!!!

[J TNT]

Thanks to all who bought the first 30 sets of Door Trim . I have 2 more sets left if anyone is looking ,
and suspect this will be the last Run for a while .....
You can reach me at 416 576 0845
Thanks Jay

Attachment 44359

[Pd2behigh]

Are you still making them , or do you still have some thank you

[J TNT]

I have 1 last set left . You can reach me at 416 576 0845 .
Thanks
Jay

[Pd2behigh]

Awesome will give you a call once I get out of this crane , thank you Paul

[03SRT757]

any sets left?

[J TNT]

There is the possibility to do another run in the new year if there is 6 or more commitments. They are now $250 each to reproduce the improved , stronger design .
Send me a pm with your phone number if you are interested.

Thanks
Jay

[Viper4Life]

PM Sent

[J TNT]

any sets left?

You have a pm .

A New run will start in 4 weeks , if anyone is interested then send me a pm with your contact info .

Thanks
Jay

[J TNT]

Thanks to those who committed and payed for New Door Trim. The new run will ship out in 4 weeks .
Given the good demand , I'll be placing the order sooner than expected. If anyone else needs New Door Trim , send me a pm with your email .

Thanks
Jay

[Tom, F&L GoR]

Hi All,

I haven't posted in a long, long time but am a true DIY and Viper guy. Had a 94, a 98 GTS, and bought a 2008 coupe about 18 months ago. The '08 had a squeaky driver window regulator, so installed the metal brace stiffener using the photos and regulator guide by 01sapphirebob. While doing the work, some of the trim didn't look like his pictures and not until reassembling it did I realize the T-shaped trim at the top of the door interior had mostly broken off. I ordered the replacement trim from J TNT, received it promptly, and then had to turn to house projects for a while. Now I've finally gotten around to it, and first, the parts are so much better than OEM. It's stiffer, thicker, tougher and looks great. A little more matte finish than stock, which is my preference, and really nice. Second, it's nowhere near the effort of replacing regulators, so don't hesitate. Yes, I had the door panel off before so knew what I was doing, but still should be less than 20 minutes per side.

Maybe I missed a change, but can't seem to upload my pictures. In the meantime, a few comments to help. Refer to
https://driveviper.com/forums/thread...ight=regulator to get the door panel off. For the three plastic pop rivets, push the center pin until it clicks. The rivet can then be pulled out. (More than likely one of the three legs has been bent over backward, so 1) pull the center pin all the way out, 2) to install them later, wrap some electrical tape around the rivet legs, 3) make the tape pointy and push the rivet through the panel and into the door, then insert the pin and push/beat it until flush. )

Once you have all the Philips head screws out, you can unhook the panel from the old door trim, you don't need to disconnect any wiring. You'll see the many small teeth that were supposed to grab the door trim edge. The old door trim is held in by two spring clips. Simply press the exposed tab and pull up. You need to re-use them, so I simply grabbed them with pliers and wiggled them off. The new trim is thicker, so don't worry about opening up the clip or that it won't grab the new piece tightly. I did not have to modify the new trim at all. Make sure you have the left or right side piece you need and look at the other door to see where to center it. With the trim in the right place, you put the clips on the new trim to line up with the slots they go in.

While you've got the door panel off, look at the plastic covering the window regulator and make sure the goo that holds it in place is in good shape. Otherwise water running down the outside of the window and into the door may splash on the regulator and into the inside of the door panel, then into the cabin. Don't ask how I know this. The new trim doesn't have the kitten teeth and doesn't need them. Re-installing the screws and plastic rivets keeps the panel easily in the slot of the new trim.

I'll figure out how to post pictures, but Jay and these parts are highly recommended. Thanks, Jay!

[Tom, F&L GoR]

OK, it's a Chrome issue, since Edge lets me upload.

Here's the original driver side mostly missing trim.
20201108_131900.jpg

[Tom, F&L GoR]

The missing trim allowed the rubber at the latch end of the door to split. It gets covered up with the new trim, so no worries. 20201108_131910.jpg

- - - Updated - - -

Push the center of the rivet in, then it comes out easily. 20201108_131952.jpg

[Tom, F&L GoR]

Just like Sapphire Bob's post, most of the screws are around the handle and speaker.20201108_132245.jpg

[Tom, F&L GoR]

My door panel wasn't so much in a slot as it was resting on top of the teeth. 20201108_132651.jpg

[Tom, F&L GoR]

Sorry that the orientations are getting screwed up.

Push on the part of the tab with the blue smudge and it'll come up and out of the door. (or just pull, but in my case, might have broken the old one more.)
20201108_132718.jpg

[Tom, F&L GoR]

When the trim is out, grab the tab and wiggle it off.

20201108_132836.jpg

[Tom, F&L GoR]

While you have the panel off, check the condition of the cover over the regulator. You want it water shedding so there's no entry to the door panel.

20201108_133327.jpg

[Tom, F&L GoR]

The plastic rivet center can be pushed all the way through. I taped around the three legs to keep them together so they would go into the hole in the door.

20201108_134256.jpg

Totally forgot to get pictures when done. But they're really nice, and now that I've done it, realize how ratty it had looked before.

[VIPER BAZ UK]

Interested in a set as spare for if and when mine go bad...

[Ludington1]

Interested in a set as spare for if and when mine go bad...

Yes, I might as well get a pair also. $250/pair is the correct pricing?

[J TNT]

Interested in a set as spare for if and when mine go bad...

Thanks Baz you have a pm .

[J TNT]

Yes, I might as well get a pair also. $250/pair is the correct pricing?

Ludington they are $250 each which is the price they sold for 10 years ago when you factor inflation .
These are also improved (50% more material on top side) and more robust than the factory ones and will last longer than originals .
Send me a pm with your cell number if you're interested . I have 2 sets left .

Thanks
Jay

[J TNT]

Thanks Tom for the positive review . Coming from you it's greatly appreciated !!!

Hi All,

I haven't posted in a long, long time but am a true DIY and Viper guy. Had a 94, a 98 GTS, and bought a 2008 coupe about 18 months ago. The '08 had a squeaky driver window regulator, so installed the metal brace stiffener using the photos and regulator guide by 01sapphirebob. While doing the work, some of the trim didn't look like his pictures and not until reassembling it did I realize the T-shaped trim at the top of the door interior had mostly broken off. I ordered the replacement trim from J TNT, received it promptly, and then had to turn to house projects for a while. Now I've finally gotten around to it, and first, the parts are so much better than OEM. It's stiffer, thicker, tougher and looks great. A little more matte finish than stock, which is my preference, and really nice. Second, it's nowhere near the effort of replacing regulators, so don't hesitate. Yes, I had the door panel off before so knew what I was doing, but still should be less than 20 minutes per side.

Maybe I missed a change, but can't seem to upload my pictures. In the meantime, a few comments to help. Refer to
https://driveviper.com/forums/thread...ight=regulator to get the door panel off. For the three plastic pop rivets, push the center pin until it clicks. The rivet can then be pulled out. (More than likely one of the three legs has been bent over backward, so 1) pull the center pin all the way out, 2) to install them later, wrap some electrical tape around the rivet legs, 3) make the tape pointy and push the rivet through the panel and into the door, then insert the pin and push/beat it until flush. )

Once you have all the Philips head screws out, you can unhook the panel from the old door trim, you don't need to disconnect any wiring. You'll see the many small teeth that were supposed to grab the door trim edge. The old door trim is held in by two spring clips. Simply press the exposed tab and pull up. You need to re-use them, so I simply grabbed them with pliers and wiggled them off. The new trim is thicker, so don't worry about opening up the clip or that it won't grab the new piece tightly. I did not have to modify the new trim at all. Make sure you have the left or right side piece you need and look at the other door to see where to center it. With the trim in the right place, you put the clips on the new trim to line up with the slots they go in.

While you've got the door panel off, look at the plastic covering the window regulator and make sure the goo that holds it in place is in good shape. Otherwise water running down the outside of the window and into the door may splash on the regulator and into the inside of the door panel, then into the cabin. Don't ask how I know this. The new trim doesn't have the kitten teeth and doesn't need them. Re-installing the screws and plastic rivets keeps the panel easily in the slot of the new trim.

I'll figure out how to post pictures, but Jay and these parts are highly recommended. Thanks, Jay!

[Grcforce327]

Just received the pair I ordered!ResizedP_48d23693-885d-40ca-b594-98f51302b791_31976525845040.gif