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  1. #1
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    Smoke on Decel Too much Oil

    https://youtu.be/7JiPUqIoe4U

    This is a 97 Heads and Cam Car. Any idea about the white smoke at the end? We did about 15-16 dyno runs. The white smoke was worst the first couple of runs. I’m thinking it’s just unburnt fuel as it’s falling to the ground. I run a Vent to Atmosphere -12 AN dual catch can. Pulled plugs 1 and 3 and they look good.

    Any ideas? Greg Good did these heads less than 10 months/ 1000 miles so I’m doubting issues with them. The car itself has 22k miles.

    Also car made 567 on dynojet224 and 586 on Mainline. Thought that was strange as jets normally read highest. Car runs really good, was tuned by Torrie. I haven’t done a leak down or or compression test as the car makes good power and have not suspected issues.

    The oil looks too be 1-2qts over the MAX mark, 1/2” over or so. Could that be causing the smoke? I did see it driving today that it would smoke on decel from a High RPM stint. I’m using 15-50 Driven XP6 oil. A Shop did the oil change.
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  2. #2
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    White smoke generally means it's burning coolant

    If it was fuel you would be able to smell it
    Last edited by kriskyk; 12-30-2019 at 02:47 PM.

  3. #3
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    White Smoke is likely from Synthetic Oil. Hard Braking?

    Check oil level in pan, make sure it's not overfilled,

    Do you have a catch can set up?

    Sump pan Baffle plates?

    I used to get the same thing, fitted a catch can, no more issues.

    Here's a Video of my car on the mulsanne straight, I floored the gas pedal for a bit then backed off and braked, thought I had blown the engine!

    Fitted a catch can, job done.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6smnVTEQIHg

    Forward video to about 3.15
    Last edited by Fatboy 18; 12-30-2019 at 04:00 PM.

  4. #4
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    It appears my engine is overfilled by 2 QTS.

    I have two vent to atmosphere catch cans and there is nothing but water in them mostly.

  5. #5
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    Well the Overfill will do it,
    Do you have a catch can from your PCV outlet? (Why they call it a Valve beats me, its just a nylon reducing tube in a rubber grommet).


  6. #6
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    I don’t have a PCV system anymore, I vent to atmosphere

  7. #7
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    How's your coolant bottle fill level look?

  8. #8
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    Looks fine to me Fascia and Head Tank

  9. #9
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    Here is my oil level
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    Last edited by Shiner; 12-30-2019 at 09:55 PM.

  10. #10
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    Anyone?

  11. #11
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    Drain the oil and measure how much is actually in there refill with the correct amount and retest

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by kriskyk View Post
    Drain the oil and measure how much is actually in there refill with the correct amount and retest
    Too simple.
    The best thing about this Viper forum....NO DAVE6666!

  13. #13
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    Hard to drain all the oil as there will always be oil in the front oil cooler rad, also in the Oil filter. But easy to remove most of it

    Its never too early for a Oil change, just drain and refill with fresh.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fatboy 18 View Post
    Hard to drain all the oil as there will always be oil in the front oil cooler rad, also in the Oil filter. But easy to remove most of it

    Its never too early for a Oil change, just drain and refill with fresh.
    Too simple.

  15. #15
    Enthusiast ICPREY's Avatar
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    Suck out the excess oil via the dip stick tube with a fluid evacuator. Good tool to have if you don't already have one.
    99 ACR, 2.8L Roe supercharger @10lbs, Greg Good heads/cam
    05 SRT 10 Ram, Roe supercharger @ 5lbs.
    09 SRT 8 Jeep

  16. #16
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    Who sells?

  17. #17
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    https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...I9ce9C60Fy7G5j

    U can also get the mityvac versions. Shop around. Available everywhere.

  18. #18
    Enthusiast ICPREY's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shiner View Post
    Who sells?
    Harbor freight, Mityvac, Amazon. I use it mostly for my lawn/snow equipment oil changes.
    99 ACR, 2.8L Roe supercharger @10lbs, Greg Good heads/cam
    05 SRT 10 Ram, Roe supercharger @ 5lbs.
    09 SRT 8 Jeep

  19. #19
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    So I drained the oil and filled with the correct amount ( 8 QTS).

    I also changed all O2 Sensors and Plugs/Wires... I went for a drive and the smoke on engine braking is still there, its quite a bit of smoke. I reached out to Greg and he responded pretty quickly saying that its not the valve seals or guides (that they are viton seals and he honed the guides perfectly). I looked down the intake on each side and it was pretty dry, no oil puddles or anything, barely any film at all. For what its worth I am running dual catch cans that vent to atmosphere. I went ahead and did a compression test and the following results (dry test) were achieved:

    1) 157psi
    2) 155psi
    3) 160psi
    4) 160psi
    5) 165psi
    6) 160psi
    7) 160psi
    8) 160psi
    9) 162psi
    10) 160psi

    The factory specifies 155-170 is the normal, allowing for a 25% variance of loss between highest/lowest. The test was done with 4 cranks of the engine. If I crank it until the gauge maxes out they were 185-193psi (highest to lowest)..

    To me these are good numbers, Greg Good was suggesting it was broken ring lands which would sickening if true. The car is a 1997 Viper GTS Gen 3 Heads and Cam car. I have borescoped the motor many times and have not noticed any scoring or broken pistons.

    What else could this smoke be???? I have no PCV system at all. I have .027 MLS head gaskets with ARP head studs. Because the heads were milled, the intake did not want to sit properly so the thermostat was grinded on so it could rest on the runners properly. I have checked the other vacuum lines and they are dry.. Coolant levels are fine.

    Its going in for a leak down test at the Viper Exchange tomorrow...

    Let me know.. Thanks!

  20. #20
    Enthusiast GTS Dean's Avatar
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    NVM....
    Last edited by GTS Dean; 01-20-2020 at 07:48 AM.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by GTS Dean View Post
    NVM....
    What is NVM?

  22. #22
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    Head gasket and or head lift etc....

  23. #23
    Enthusiast GTS Dean's Avatar
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    nevermind. I had typed a response, but then re-read your post and there was more info than my initial scan.

  24. #24
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    My old car did the same thing right after heads and cam. Used the high end valve seals, discovered they didn’t work as well as the oem. Changed them all back to oem problem solved. Not saying that’s your issue but all of the symptoms on my car were identical to yours.
    98 GTS
    70 LS6 Chevelle
    2014 Ftype V8S

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by GTS Dean View Post
    nevermind. I had typed a response, but then re-read your post and there was more info than my initial scan.
    Quote Originally Posted by Martyb View Post
    My old car did the same thing right after heads and cam. Used the high end valve seals, discovered they didn’t work as well as the oem. Changed them all back to oem problem solved. Not saying that’s your issue but all of the symptoms on my car were identical to yours.
    How did you know it was the seals? Who did the heads? These Compression readings were taken while the car was cold. Manual calls for 155-170psi, with 25% variance allowance.

    Like I said though if I kept cranking to achieve max psi, I can get up to 190psi on all cylinders.
    Last edited by Shiner; 01-20-2020 at 01:05 PM.


 
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