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  1. #26
    Enthusiast Jack B's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve M View Post
    Are you guys absolutely sure your nylon bushing is broken? I only ask because I went with a bronze bushing on my old Camaro with a T-56, and it greatly increased NVH in the cabin. Yeah, the bronze one wasn't going to break, but I'm not sure the extra noise was worth it.
    1. I forgot to mention, your install post is the Mona Lisa of posts, what a great write up, I had not seen it previously.

    2. I am also trying to decide whether to replace the plastic bushing with a metallic bushin. I have already broke a plastic bushing. You are right, when that bushing breaks, there is a huge change in the feel. There is another post within this thread, that opinion is there is not a big diff in the feel of the metal bushing - what do your think.
    Last edited by Jack B; 02-07-2020 at 09:11 PM.
    Self tuned HPT 10.85@130 mph (DA=+1000)
    [B]Arrow Heads & Cam - best run is coming
    (Sold) 1997 Red/White -10.9/129 MPH

  2. #27
    Enthusiast Jack B's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Old School View Post
    If you put the trans in 1st or 2nd it should rotate that shaft around and make it easier to drive the roll pin out in the car. When I removed mine (trans out of the car), it just took a few light taps with a hammer and punch.
    I pulled the trans yesterday and forgot to try and punch the pin out with the trans in the car. It may be possible while in the car, at a minimum I will post a pic with the plate off and the trans in the car. I tested the pin with a punch, mine is in fairly tight.
    Self tuned HPT 10.85@130 mph (DA=+1000)
    [B]Arrow Heads & Cam - best run is coming
    (Sold) 1997 Red/White -10.9/129 MPH

  3. #28
    Enthusiast Jack B's Avatar
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    The most interesting point about removing the trans plate is how much easier it makes the trans removal. The G5 tunnel is unique in how close the trans plate is to the top and left side of the tunnel. If the car's exhaust does not allow the engine to drop far enough, the trans removal/install is difficult. This is a variable, the type of exhaust system directly affects how far the engine will drop.

    just one more heads-up, when removing the cross member (lowering trans) make sure you loosen the air box tubes and leave the hood partially open, otherwise you could possibily damage the throttle bodies.
    Last edited by Jack B; 02-07-2020 at 09:33 PM.
    Self tuned HPT 10.85@130 mph (DA=+1000)
    [B]Arrow Heads & Cam - best run is coming
    (Sold) 1997 Red/White -10.9/129 MPH

  4. #29
    Enthusiast Steve M's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jack B View Post
    1. I forgot to mention, your install post is the Mona Lisa of posts, what a great write up, I had not seen it previously.
    Heh...thanks. Spent longer on that than I care to admit (both the project and the writeup).

    Quote Originally Posted by Jack B View Post
    2. I am also trying to decide whether to replace the plastic bushing with a metallic bushin. I have already broke a plastic bushing. You are right, when that bushing breaks, there is a huge change in the feel. There is another post within this thread, that opinion is there is not a big diff in the feel of the metal bushing - what do your think.
    Well, chances are that if you already broke the nylon bushing, you'll probably break it again. So the question is whether or not you want to go through all of this again at some point in the future, or do it once and be done with it?

    Based on what I remember of doing the bronze bushing in my Camaro, it was pretty much a press fit to get it set in place. While not impossible to remove, it would have been very difficult at best. If you can figure out how to get that roll pin in and out, that may be a non-issue. At worst, you'd just have to replace that whole shifter cup assembly.

    As I get older, I have less tolerance for NVH inducing mods. Your car with your mods has to be loud as all hell, so you may not even notice it, although I would say my Camaro also fell into the "loud as all hell" category as well. It wasn't a rattling sound, more of a mechanical whirring, similar to what I've experienced with my Nth Moto clutch. Some people may even like it.
    2008 SRT-10 Coupe - Venom Red Metallic w/ White Stripes
    High Flow Cats | Gen 5 Intake Manifold | HPTuners | 3.55s | MCS | DSS Axles | Nth Moto Clutch | 11.04 @ 129.7, 1.81 60' (-100 ft DA, w/ 3.55s)

  5. #30
    Enthusiast Jack B's Avatar
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    I decided to go with the metallic bushing, the pin holding the bushing's metal cup came out fairly easy after a couple of taps. I also decided to remove the skip shift solenoid and plug the hole.
    Self tuned HPT 10.85@130 mph (DA=+1000)
    [B]Arrow Heads & Cam - best run is coming
    (Sold) 1997 Red/White -10.9/129 MPH

  6. #31
    Enthusiast stradman's Avatar
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    Where does one get those metallic bushings for future reference.?

  7. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by stradman View Post
    Where does one get those metallic bushings for future reference.?
    I got mine here:
    Quote Originally Posted by Old School View Post
    I replaced the plastic bushing with a bronze one.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shifter-Cup...QAAOSwPrdcUCTB
    It was a snug, not tight fit. I glued it in place with some RTV so if I didn't like it I could easily replace it.

  8. #33
    Enthusiast Jack B's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Old School View Post
    I got mine here:


    It was a snug, not tight fit. I glued it in place with some RTV so if I didn't like it I could easily replace it.
    That seller had an "Out of Stock" notice. I put his PN in the Ebay search box and another seller showed up.
    Self tuned HPT 10.85@130 mph (DA=+1000)
    [B]Arrow Heads & Cam - best run is coming
    (Sold) 1997 Red/White -10.9/129 MPH

  9. #34
    Enthusiast Jack B's Avatar
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    Some up dates, some very interesting.

    1. Most of the after-market bushings (ebay/amazon) are not a Tremec/oem product.

    2. I have a plastic bushing and a brass bushing from a company called Amp. The shifter ball definitely has more play in the after-market bushings versus the oem bushing.

    3. The metallic bushing has caused some trans jams due to a diff in the top radius versus the oem bushing. This comes from a Tremec specialist (John Donoto)

    4. A replacement bushing should be epoxied in place. Tremic has a special epoxy for this purpose, the cost is approx $30. Knowing this fact seems to say, why not replace the cup and bushing assembly versus, just the bushing.

    After looking at all options, is seems the best option for a failed bushing is to go with a Tremec or Mopar replacement and that is the assembly of the cup and the bushing.
    Last edited by Jack B; 02-18-2020 at 12:19 PM.
    Self tuned HPT 10.85@130 mph (DA=+1000)
    [B]Arrow Heads & Cam - best run is coming
    (Sold) 1997 Red/White -10.9/129 MPH

  10. #35
    i would suggest getting a bushing made out of PEEK, its a very hard polymer that can be machined to tight tolerances. Any machine shop that has a lathe could turn these in a jiffy at a cheap cost. just my two cents on the issue, as i've dealt with broken/worn nylon bushings as well as the rattle of a bronze bushing.

  11. #36
    Enthusiast Jack B's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ZeeViper View Post
    i would suggest getting a bushing made out of PEEK, its a very hard polymer that can be machined to tight tolerances. Any machine shop that has a lathe could turn these in a jiffy at a cheap cost. just my two cents on the issue, as i've dealt with broken/worn nylon bushings as well as the rattle of a bronze bushing.
    My guess is the oem bushing is a delrin type plastic which is close to the durability of metal.
    Self tuned HPT 10.85@130 mph (DA=+1000)
    [B]Arrow Heads & Cam - best run is coming
    (Sold) 1997 Red/White -10.9/129 MPH


 
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