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  1. #26
    No apologies needed Bill. All input from experience is appreciated.

  2. #27
    If you're going for light weight, then changing out the hubs makes sense. But if you're doing it just to run a specific set of wheels, why not just run adapters?

  3. #28
    removing one lug from each wheel is not really going to make a difference in the weight department. Running an adapter causes 2 problems: one it puts to much strain on the lugs and second that would change the already drastic offset of the wheel which would eliminate the wheel choice that I want to use (Weld wheels).

  4. #29
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    adapters and spacers actually are known to reduce wheel bearing life by increase leverage and stress.

  5. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by RyanLS.GEN2 View Post
    adapters and spacers actually are known to reduce wheel bearing life by increase leverage and stress.
    I think only if actual wheel offset is changed. If spacer/adapter is added and wheel offset reduced to compensate I would not expect any change to bearing loads.

  6. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by RyanLS.GEN2 View Post
    adapters and spacers actually are known to reduce wheel bearing life by increase leverage and stress.
    Hey...shouldn't you be out snowmobiling? Next time I'm at my place in Elcho, I'll drop you a note.!!!

  7. #32
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    There is only like 1" of snow, its pretty sad up here. the lkes have froze over super smooth this year and we are going lake skating this weekend. its pretty awesome when you can skate a whole lake.

  8. #33
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    its not often you can add a spacer/adapter and not change the offset. when you put a 25mm adapter on a +50 wheel, you would need to find a +75 wheel to compensate, and most times you can't machine the center much before you are dangerously close in the lug holes. your better off just getting the right wheel rather than having to buy a custom wheel only to have to adapt it, then having 2-3 negatives in addition, 1. extra bolts to come loose or break, 2 having extra load due to leverage. 3. more unsprung weight that is actually in the drive line.
    Last edited by RyanLS.GEN2; 12-17-2020 at 03:26 PM.

  9. #34
    Enthusiast RCR88's Avatar
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    Jason, what Weld are you going with? I’ve seen a lot of those S71’s on F-body builds lately that look really good.

  10. #35
    Quote Originally Posted by jasond29 View Post
    removing one lug from each wheel is not really going to make a difference in the weight department. Running an adapter causes 2 problems: one it puts to much strain on the lugs and second that would change the already drastic offset of the wheel which would eliminate the wheel choice that I want to use (Weld wheels).
    Wait... you think spacers add extra stress on bearings but want to run a wheel with a drastic offset ... you do realize that a wheel with a more aggressive is literally the same thing as adding a spacer.

  11. #36
    Quote Originally Posted by RyanLS.GEN2 View Post
    adapters and spacers actually are known to reduce wheel bearing life by increase leverage and stress.
    Lets put it in practical terms, what you're saying is that since the Dakota and Viper use the same bearings and the offset and width of the Viper wheels is different than the wheels of the Dakota the Viper bearings will have a shorter life . . . and since the offset and width of the Viper's front & rear wheels is different with the same bearing that one set will fail sooner than the other. lol

  12. #37
    um, actually the wheel I will be running will be a near 0 offset so dont know where your getting that information from. Stock viper offset for the rear is +71mm, almost 3" which puts nearly 10" of the wheel hanging towards the inside. That puts a lot of stress on the hub. I wanted to run the Alpha 1 wheel but it only comes with a 5" backspace which would cause the wheel to stick out about an inch so not gonna work. I am now looking to run the v-series wheel because I can get the 6" backspace which will put the wheel right flush with the wheel well.

  13. #38
    Enthusiast Old School's Avatar
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    I'm not much of a fan of wheel adapters on a performance vehicle, just another point of possible failure.

    Also, changing the offset via wheels or adapters will effect the scrub radius on the front.

  14. #39
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    jasond29: "um, actually the wheel I will be running will be a near 0 offset so dont know where your getting that information from. Stock viper offset for the rear is +71mm, almost 3" which puts nearly 10" of the wheel hanging towards the inside. That puts a lot of stress on the hub. I wanted to run the Alpha 1 wheel but it only comes with a 5" backspace which would cause the wheel to stick out about an inch so not gonna work. I am now looking to run the v-series wheel because I can get the 6" backspace which will put the wheel right flush with the wheel well. "


    SO you have that idea of offset backwards, with positive offset, you have less leverage on the hub. the hub is the centerline, negative offset creates leverage, positive offset is the opposite since you are moving the center of the wheel past the center of the hub . 10"/3" is a 10" lever, 3"/10" is a 3" lever

  15. #40
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  16. #41
    Enthusiast Mad Max's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jasond29 View Post
    I feel like this conversation is really going off the rails. We can argue engineering this and that all day but I will be changing to 5 lug hubs. Sal Patel has already done this and proven it works on a +3k hp drag viper so I am not too concerned with my little weekend warrior car. This is not something I recommend doing if you are just trying to get a different street wheel because it is not a cheap change over and will cost more in the long run.
    So do you know what diameter of rear stud that Sal runs on his drag car? I'll bet they are not OEM Viper diameter. Also, I bet he using a non-OEM rear end setup that is made from some sort of high-strength material.

    One of the 100's

  17. #42
    Enthusiast Steve M's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mad Max View Post
    Also, I bet he using a non-OEM rear end setup that is made from some sort of high-strength material.
    My guess would be a Ford 9"...I don't know of anything stronger out there that anyone's put in a Viper.
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  18. #43
    The rear differential that he runs is irrelevant because he still uses the stock spindles and stock hubs that I am aware of. Stock wheel studs are 1/2" which are pretty standard and after talking with 1320wheels they usually run a screw in ARP stud so I dont think strength will be an issue.

    I am sure they will be fine for me, not for everyone but I am to get the wheels I want this is the route I am taking.

  19. #44
    Enthusiast Mad Max's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve M View Post
    My guess would be a Ford 9"...I don't know of anything stronger out there that anyone's put in a Viper.
    My point exactly. Definitely not stock hubs and spindles on the rear of that car. Most likely is using something like in the attached pic for drive studs on the rear. A purpose-built drag car with 4 or 5" wheels on the front will not experience side loads on the front hubs like a stock Viper with 10" wide wheels.

    Drive studs.jpg
    Drive studs 2.jpg

    One of the 100's

  20. #45
    got it, this is not for you. Thanks for you input, will keep this thread updated with my results.

  21. #46
    Was there ever any headway on this? Looking to convert to 5x114.3 for ease of wheel selection and this is the most recent thread I could find.

  22. #47
    Yes check the Facebook group.

  23. #48
    Yeah, it been all over instagram and facebook, blue and white with Weld wheels. Looks killer. I have the hubs sitting in the garage but just havent put them on yet.

  24. #49
    I wanna see! Post up some pics, dude.

    Thx

  25. #50
    Enthusiast Steve M's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jasond29 View Post
    Yeah, it been all over instagram and facebook, blue and white with Weld wheels. Looks killer. I have the hubs sitting in the garage but just havent put them on yet.
    Posted under what handle on IG?
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