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Thread: Viper Tips

  1. #26
    Enthusiast jns681186's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Whopperman View Post
    Which set did you like best and was there a big milage difference between the two sets before they fell off?
    In almost every case I like the Corsa more. While I have never tracked it, just taking a sharp turn in the Corsa gives you so much more confidence then the regular P-Zero, I could be wrong but it feels like the side wall is much more sturdy on the front tires. The grip they have at take off is much better then regular P-Zero.

    I also have to agree w/SRT_BluByu, the mileage you get is nearly identical.

    When I first changed out the factory sets for the regular P-Zeros, I got them because I thought they would be more practical tires for the Viper, but I never got any extra mileage on them, at least nothing significant.

    I have lived out in Seattle the past two years, and although I never intend on driving the car in the rain, there have been many times I still end up in the rain just because of how the weather is out here here. Even in the rain, the Corsa's still prevail. I wouldn't go as far as saying you can drive aggressively w/them in the rain, but you feel confident enough that you can get home safely without hydro plaining.

    Only down side I have w/Corsa is when its cold. If it's below 40 degrees, you either need to keep the car at home or just be very soft on the pedal because grip is significant reduced.

  2. #27
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    Like jns68 my 15 seems similar:

    55K miles
    5 TH set of tires(PZero and Michelin PS cup) each lasts about 12-14000 miles
    Don't track it- just oil change every 2500-3000 miles
    All fluids changed per manual
    Original clutch and brake pads- FUNNY- thought it was just me!
    Both window regulators went at 50,000 miles-within a week of each other

    Gets driven 10 months of the year on average-ROTTEN Jersey roads too!
    Daily for maybe 8 months a year-rain and all- she's reliable 24/7!

    Just change the oil every 3K miles-follow the manual-and ENJOY!

  3. #28
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    TheMadMachinist's Avatar
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    A couple more Viper tips if they haven't been mentioned. Flush/Change your brake fluid to a brand with a higher boiling point.
    Pickup a tire plug kit to keep in the car and check your can of tire sealant that comes with the air pump.
    Pickup and front tow hook or a strap you can thread into the front of the car. These cars are next to imposable to get on tilt bed truck without messing something up without one.
    Last edited by TheMadMachinist; 07-28-2021 at 07:35 PM.
    2000 GTS built/Paxton:Sold
    2013 GTS
    2010 SRT10 Coupe

  4. #29
    Quote Originally Posted by jns681186 View Post
    In almost every case I like the Corsa more. While I have never tracked it, just taking a sharp turn in the Corsa gives you so much more confidence then the regular P-Zero, I could be wrong but it feels like the side wall is much more sturdy on the front tires. The grip they have at take off is much better then regular P-Zero.

    I also have to agree w/SRT_BluByu, the mileage you get is nearly identical.

    When I first changed out the factory sets for the regular P-Zeros, I got them because I thought they would be more practical tires for the Viper, but I never got any extra mileage on them, at least nothing significant.

    I have lived out in Seattle the past two years, and although I never intend on driving the car in the rain, there have been many times I still end up in the rain just because of how the weather is out here here. Even in the rain, the Corsa's still prevail. I wouldn't go as far as saying you can drive aggressively w/them in the rain, but you feel confident enough that you can get home safely without hydro plaining.

    Only down side I have w/Corsa is when its cold. If it's below 40 degrees, you either need to keep the car at home or just be very soft on the pedal because grip is significant reduced.
    If I am not mistaken, they are stiffer which in addition to the softer compound helps it handle better. Is that like outside 40 degrees or 40 degrees ground temperature, I plan on driving around in the winter, barring salt and snow.

  5. #30
    Quote Originally Posted by mikesax View Post
    Like jns68 my 15 seems similar:

    55K miles
    5 TH set of tires(PZero and Michelin PS cup) each lasts about 12-14000 miles
    Don't track it- just oil change every 2500-3000 miles
    All fluids changed per manual
    Original clutch and brake pads- FUNNY- thought it was just me!
    Both window regulators went at 50,000 miles-within a week of each other

    Gets driven 10 months of the year on average-ROTTEN Jersey roads too!
    Daily for maybe 8 months a year-rain and all- she's reliable 24/7!

    Just change the oil every 3K miles-follow the manual-and ENJOY!
    I'm in New York and work in Jersey, these roads are terrible, I plan on driving it about the same amount of time as well. Notice any performance and comfort difference between the two? Also, I work in Noorth Jersey, what part are you in?

  6. #31
    Quote Originally Posted by TheMadMachinist View Post
    A couple more Viper tips if they haven't been mentioned. Flush/Change your brake fluid to a brand with a higher boiling point.
    Pickup a tire plug kit to keep in the car and check your can of tire sealant that comes with the air pump.
    Pickup and front tow hook or a strap you can thread into the front of the car. These cars are next to imposable to get on tilt bed truck without messing something up without one.
    They have not, what brand do you use, and is there a storage compartment for it (aside from the middle box/net) or do you just use a bag?

  7. #32
    Quote Originally Posted by Whopperman View Post
    I think I am going to get one, but I plan on driving maybe 4 days a week and in the winter, unless there is salt on the ground. Should I keep it plugged in only when I know I won't drive it for a bit or just always keep it plugged in?
    If you drive the car regularly, you don't need a battery tender. But if you own multiple cars, then owning a battery tender is a good thing. I hesitantly bought mine 7 or 8 years ago and am now very glad that I did.
    1997 Dodge Viper GTS || Matte Bentley Silver | 60k miles ||

    2005 Chevrolet Cobalt SS || 2002 Audi TT Quattro || 1986 Volkswagen GTI

  8. #33
    Quote Originally Posted by usmcfieldmp View Post
    If you drive the car regularly, you don't need a battery tender. But if you own multiple cars, then owning a battery tender is a good thing. I hesitantly bought mine 7 or 8 years ago and am now very glad that I did.
    What about tire cushions?

  9. #34
    Enthusiast darbgnik's Avatar
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    I live in the great white north, so mine gets parked for 6 months plus a year. During those 6 months a year mine sits on a battery tender. Even though it's rarely driven even in summer, it doesn't get plugged in then, and does fine. My factory battery keeled over dead at around 4 years old, not bad.... I also have never used cushions etc on the tires for that period, and noticed no ill effects.

    I only have a lot personal experience with the Corsa's so I can't recommend one tire over the other.
    Brad Williams
    2015 Competition Blue SRT - V/E DSC Suspension - TA1 Aero - StopTech's - SW2's with Corsas, Hummer H1, 70 Dodge Charger, BMW R1200GS Rallye, Ducati 999S, etc

  10. #35
    Quote Originally Posted by darbgnik View Post
    I live in the great white north, so mine gets parked for 6 months plus a year. During those 6 months a year mine sits on a battery tender. Even though it's rarely driven even in summer, it doesn't get plugged in then, and does fine. My factory battery keeled over dead at around 4 years old, not bad.... I also have never used cushions etc on the tires for that period, and noticed no ill effects.

    I only have a lot personal experience with the Corsa's so I can't recommend one tire over the other.
    I'm sure that car is also a unicorn up there, I currently don't have a garage at my house so it's nice to know I can get a car port or something to put down without having to run an extension cord laying on the ground, or focusing on rushing to rent a garage with an outlet.

  11. #36
    Quote Originally Posted by Hootie View Post
    A lot of people recommend thicker oil (15w-50) watch I believe Dick Winkles recommended. OEM was apparently 0w-40 to meet some emissions requirement. If you're under warranty, stick with OEM fluid. If not, if use the 15w-50. Dick did design the motor after all.
    Interesting. Is this Gen V specific or does it apply to all Gens? Not a lot of 15W50 options out there.
    1997 Dodge Viper GTS || Matte Bentley Silver | 60k miles ||

    2005 Chevrolet Cobalt SS || 2002 Audi TT Quattro || 1986 Volkswagen GTI

  12. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by usmcfieldmp View Post
    Interesting. Is this Gen V specific or does it apply to all Gens? Not a lot of 15W50 options out there.
    I always ran 15W-50 Mobile One in my Gen IV.

  13. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Whopperman View Post
    They have not, what brand do you use, and is there a storage compartment for it (aside from the middle box/net) or do you just use a bag?
    Harbor fright for the plug kit and I just found the biggest can of fix a flat. We have huge tires.
    I just store it on the passenger side in the back stuffed in the corner with a couple micro fiber towels.

    If you go on a long drive. I have heard it's good idea to bring along your own bottle of glass cleaner and some paper towels. Those squeegees at gas stations can be tough on windshields.
    2000 GTS built/Paxton:Sold
    2013 GTS
    2010 SRT10 Coupe

  14. #39
    Enthusiast darbgnik's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 13COBRA View Post
    I always ran 15W-50 Mobile One in my Gen IV.
    I've run 15W-50 even back to my old Gen 3(a quart or more extra in a Gen 3 to prevent oil starvation), but that's with the track in mind. Honestly though, my Viper will probably never be started up in temperatures that make 15W-50 too thick anyway....
    Brad Williams
    2015 Competition Blue SRT - V/E DSC Suspension - TA1 Aero - StopTech's - SW2's with Corsas, Hummer H1, 70 Dodge Charger, BMW R1200GS Rallye, Ducati 999S, etc

  15. #40
    Prefix actually recommends 15W50 for the 9.0 L setup and Scott stated with the better internals it likes the thicker oil. As for tires, I couldn't wait to get rid of the Corsas. The car tended to skip around in hard braking zones with those on, but once I switched to the Sport Cup 2's that problem went away quickly. The original owner only put 1900 miles on my car and the Corsa's looked brand new. 6000 miles later they were corded and dead. Sport Cups now have two track days on them and are wearing evenly with no drop off in performance.
    Blake

    2016 1 of 1 Viper GTC Prefix 9.0 Stroker Stage 2 Arrow

  16. #41
    I picked up 3 gallons of Redline 15W50 at Summit yesterday. Looking forward to seeing how the car likes it. I don't know what the previous owner had put in the car, but my understand was that he just went to a quick lube sort of place, so I imagine it's the factory recommended weight.
    1997 Dodge Viper GTS || Matte Bentley Silver | 60k miles ||

    2005 Chevrolet Cobalt SS || 2002 Audi TT Quattro || 1986 Volkswagen GTI

  17. #42
    Quote Originally Posted by Hootie View Post
    There's also the non Corsa Pirelli P-Zeros, which get a bad rap in some circles, but I replaced my Corsas with them and an quite happy with them for street tires. Toyo R888 if you want the best gripping street tire at the expense of noise and wet weather traction.
    For all vipers Gen 3-5, the window regulators suck and will break. When they do, don't buy new ones, send them out to be rebuilt with metal tubes and they'll last a lifetime. Also cheaper to rebuild than buying new. Also the window bosses have failed for lots of people. Mine didn't, but I replaced then with the DSE metal bosses when I had my window out.
    Don't let the oil run low. Not every car burbs oil but a lot do. Might have to do with forged pistons? Either way just keep the oil full and no worries. A lot of people recommend thicker oil (15w-50) watch I believe Dick Winkles recommended. OEM was apparently 0w-40 to meet some emissions requirement. If you're under warranty, stick with OEM fluid. If not, if use the 15w-50. Dick did design the motor after all.

    www.viperpartsrack.com for JonB
    www.dougshelbyengineering.com for the window bosses
    www.powerwindowrepair.com for the regulators

    Good luck!
    Mobil 1 10W-40 high mileage is what he recommends the most for street duty, 15W-50 is ok, but he prefers the other.. I had a FB messenger convo with him about it..A3338AD6-55D1-4EE4-ACCB-DD3889227221.jpg
    Last edited by VENOM-TA; 08-06-2021 at 01:42 PM.

  18. #43
    VOA Mamba Member
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    Oil weight will depend more on temperature than it will for street/track duty.

  19. #44
    Quote Originally Posted by 13COBRA View Post
    Oil weight will depend more on temperature than it will for street/track duty.
    Right.. this is what he recommended, he designed the engine so I’ll take his advice..

  20. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by VENOM-TA View Post
    Right.. this is what he recommended, he designed the engine so I’ll take his advice..
    I'm not saying not to follow his advice. You can do whatever you please.

    If you live in Texas, I'd be running 15-50, if you live in Minnesota, I'd run 10-40.

  21. #46
    Quote Originally Posted by 13COBRA View Post
    I'm not saying not to follow his advice. You can do whatever you please.

    If you live in Texas, I'd be running 15-50, if you live in Minnesota, I'd run 10-40.
    I’m in Texas, car had 15W-50 in it when I bought it, reached out to him for advice before I changed it and that’s what he said.. I’m not telling anyone what to run but just chiming in with my experience/recommendation…
    He didn’t down play 15W-50 as he said it’s ok, but for my application he recommended 10W-40..


 
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