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  1. #1

    need opinions on my lower front fascia spoiler currently not color matched to car

    I bought my 2000 RT10 a few weeks ago. It is the steel grey color which I really really love. The thing I found though is that the lower front fascia is painted a flat black on a textured / hammered finish. It really doesn't look bad, but I do see that as factory these should be color matched to the color of the car.

    The lower fascia has some nicks, so I will be repairing it soon. Wanting opinions if I should leave (repaint) with the flat black, or should I match it to the car color? Also as factory, were these textured or were they smooth like the rest of the car? If smooth, I'm not going to go that route as removing the texture is alot of work - what do you guys think if I left it textured but sprayed it to the exact car color (I already bought a can from the local body shop supply store - it is the exact match for my car).

    Here are some pics - zoom into it to see the lower front fascia.

    ThanksIMG_20210813_203245770[1].jpg

  2. #2
    VOA Member
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    Hey Dandaman, nope not stock. It’s supposed to be smooth. Maybe it was covered to protect or cover some type of damage.
    Prefix spent something like 120 hours prepping and painting a Viper. I’m purdy sure that texture wasn’t part of the plan.

    Works on a Jeep, but not a Viper.

    Beautiful car!

  3. #3
    VOA Mamba Member
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    Ya, get that texture off, doesn't look right / good.
    96 GTS (# 33, Bone Stock), 66 Mustang Convertible, 66 Mustang Hardtop, 69 Corvette Roadster

  4. #4
    Enthusiast Viper GTS-R's Avatar
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    Or paint the rest of the car to match! Just another option.
    They’re coming to get you Barbara.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Viper GTS-R View Post
    Or paint the rest of the car to match! Just another option.
    I like it - they sell the rock guard in a spray can at the local automotive store - I could have the whole car done in under an hour so under $100. (haha). but seriously I guess I'll have to figure out how to get that stuff off the lower fascia. I see a nick in the hammer finish and under it I see the original paint. looks like the previous owner sprayed the original fascia. I'm thinking of paint stripper but will need to be very careful

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by DanDaMan View Post
    I'm thinking of paint stripper but will need to be very careful
    I wouldn't do that - that'll go through everything. But I guess if you're going to have it repainted anyway, it doesn't matter.

    Have you checked to make sure it isn't something like Plasti Dip, which can simply be pulled off?
    1997 Dodge Viper GTS || Matte Bentley Silver | 60k miles ||

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  7. #7
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    I bet it was sprayed cheaply and quickly to hide scrapes underneath the fascia

    I just had mine repainted and lacquered due to stonechips (gen 3 blue/white) at a local bodyshop in the UK, and it wasn't horrendously expensive - the equivalent of 500 bucks. It's the 2nd time they've done it in 6 years, and it won't be the last, due to the inevitable stone chips and scrapes

  8. #8
    I've never seen that before as others have stated its not right. Is that a spoiler on the back? You should fix that to.

  9. #9
    I've thot of doing mine for years but if you paint it on the car where do you make the break between top and bottom? Seems otherwise you have an obvious repaint, so I left it alone. Flat black is definitely not original. Somebody's bad idea.

  10. #10
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    For what it's worth, I have an opinion on this. I think rock chips are less ugly than this coating, and less ugly than the lines from most clear bras. What's the point? Perhaps the argument could be made for resale value, but when you factor cost of installation and cost of a fascia respray, it seems like the numbers won't make any significant difference.

    I would definitely try sanding before stripper. Perhaps even a tar remover or mineral spirits, starting at the edge of the coating so the stripper can get underneath it and dislodge it from the stock paint beneath. If you're really careful and really lucky, you might be able to remove it without repainting.

  11. #11
    Enthusiast GTS Dean's Avatar
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    That junk definitely needs to come off. Best left as a winter project with fascia removal. I would suggest placing it on body shop stand with heat lamps above to soften the coating. You could combine that with a couple different gentle solvents to see which works best.
    96 GTS. Viper Days Modified Class. Fresh motor 10-2020!

  12. #12
    OK, so today I started to tackle this hack job the PO did. From reading reviews off google I ended buying Citristrip as this stuff was recommended to remove rock guard. I followed the instructions off a youtube video, by applying it over the entire fascia and putting plastic wrap over it for 24 hours. What a piece of shit this stuff is. It hardened and made the removal that much harder as now I needed to remove the dried Citristrip and the rock gaurd. Ended up using traditional stripper, which did get everything off down to the fiberglass, though it was a slow process (took 5 hours to get it down to FG - see pics). Tomorrow will sand it down and bondo all cracks or gaps, and then will start on the primer coat, base coat and clear. Will attempt to do it all from my driveway. Will send pics once all done. BTW - the PO was a real ass - not only did he do this hack rock guard job, he didn't even mask off the rest of the fascia - there was tons of overspray but thankfully with lots of elbow grease I was able to get this off using Flitz Polish which removed the overspray without impacting the paint or clearcoat.

    The 1st pic is the starting point, the next is the citristrip coating, and the rest with the fascia stripped using traditional strippers.

    IMG_20210930_142410426[1].jpg

    IMG_20210930_144959121[1].jpg

    IMG_20211001_145504721[1].jpg

    IMG_20211001_145512079[1].jpg

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by DanDaMan View Post
    down to the fiberglass
    There should be no fiberglass used in either of your bumper covers unless they are aftermarket like Autoform or Hennessey. The factory parts are urethane. You might want to get that figured out before you buy products made for fiberglass that either destroy or won't stick to a urethane bumper cover. Or possibly both.
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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by dave6666 View Post
    There should be no fiberglass used in either of your bumper covers unless they are aftermarket like Autoform or Hennessey. The factory parts are urethane. You might want to get that figured out before you buy products made for fiberglass that either destroy or won't stick to a urethane bumper cover. Or possibly both.
    Absolutely agree. Should be very easy to determine the base material. Is it flexible or rigid? Fiberglass is rigid and hard while urethane is flexible and soft. Appearance-wise it looks like a stock urethane fascia but all the paint layers is a bit confusing.

  15. #15
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    What a nightmare. Are you planning to mask the fascia along the gap? Thanks for the updates! I just resprayed my fascia in my garage a couple months ago.

  16. #16
    Yes it is soft and flexible so seems to be this urethane. Have no experience with this so assumed it was FB. Still have more stripping to go and then sanding. Was busy polishing out the overspray on the sections above. What an ass the PO was. Who would do this to a viper?

  17. #17
    Stupid local body paint shop. They were supposed to be the best paint match shop in town - you simply give them the make and year and they can tell if only 1 color was made for that year and if multiple they can get you the right paint based off vin or scanning the car. I didn't bring in my Viper when I bought the paint cause they told me there is only 1 steel grey for 2000, so I bought it. Anyway, I had the upper section masked so only the lower fascia was exposed - after primer I put down the base coat with this spray paint. It did look off but being the upper section was masked it really didn't stand out - just looked off. I trusted it though and did 4 coats of clear coat (the 2k good stuff). After it all dried and took off the masking and the paint is way off. It almost has a purple tint to it vs a grey. I'm pissed. Now not only will I have to go back and argue with the shop for a new can (and hopefully the right color this time), but now I will have to sand the clear off as paint will not adhere to clear - and then buy another can of the 2k clear.

    What a piss off

  18. #18
    OK, so I went back to the paint shop and they used a scanner to find the exact color, and their guy then played with the formula til he got it very very close. I ended up sanding off the wrong color (more to explain on that later), and repainted and then added clear. Below are the latest pics. Since doing this I learned a few things. First, the original paint spray that the shop provided is actually the right color. I ended up spraying a scrap piece of plastic and did it in varying levels. I then put this piece up to the car and sure enough one of the levels was perfect. What I found was the thicker I went the more purple it turned - the trick is to go half way. Where the new custom paint the shop made me has to go thick to get to match.

    The other thing I learned is that my clear coat was way to light - you will notice that on the fascia. Based on youtube vids I need to go thick. I have a new can of clear but I'm waiting for a new rear spoiler so will wait til it arrives, at which time I will go thick on the front fascia and thick on the new rear spoiler after I paint it. But based on the pic below I think it looks way better than the black rock guard

    IMG_20211005_133532290[1].jpg

  19. #19
    btw - here is a pic of the first paint I did, where I used the official paint but went too thick to the point it looked more purpleIMG_20211004_112511467[1].jpg


 

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