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  1. #26
    @Steve M

    Always appreciate you being a custodian on past VOA / Forum articles and the redirects, when you can help on them! Hope we have a chance to meet in person, as we share the same State now.

    NEW QUESTION : Saw the Interior Light LED Upgrade video and poured through the thread. As you seem to have nailed this (including new parts from Amazon), but is it required to remove the steering column to do this easily and properly?

    Understand where it could ease / assist, but will probably take everything I have just to do all the other steps sans this one...if it can be avoided. #AbovePayGrade

  2. #27
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    You definitely do not have to remove the steering column. Just the vanity shroud around it.
    That leaves enough room to get the top dash panel out. If you dropped the column down from its interior mounting point right inside the dash, it would make it easier.

  3. #28
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    What's the level of difficulty to replace the OEM vents with the Audi TT? Would the dash bezel have to be removed? Looks very nice btw!

  4. #29
    Enthusiast Steve M's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RedDogOhio View Post
    @Steve M

    Always appreciate you being a custodian on past VOA / Forum articles and the redirects, when you can help on them! Hope we have a chance to meet in person, as we share the same State now.
    I know where all the bodies are buried at this point, at least around these parts.


    Quote Originally Posted by RedDogOhio View Post
    NEW QUESTION : Saw the Interior Light LED Upgrade video and poured through the thread. As you seem to have nailed this (including new parts from Amazon), but is it required to remove the steering column to do this easily and properly?

    Understand where it could ease / assist, but will probably take everything I have just to do all the other steps sans this one...if it can be avoided. #AbovePayGrade
    A good portion of the interior should be removed to get the dash and 4 gauge clusters out without damaging anything. I've had the interior out of mine enough that I can give you some tips/tricks to help you.

    Bottom line: unbolting the steering column (two nuts from underneath) and letting it hang helps greatly. The steering wheel can stay in place, but as has already been stated, you will end up needing to remove the shroud that covers the steering column (two screws, accessed from underneath).

    It takes time/patience...doing it in a rush is not recommended. If something isn't coming out, it is probably because there is a fastener somewhere you've missed. I'll try to write something up later when I get a moment to help you out. You don't need advanced DIY skills, but it is labor intensive for what it is.

    Quote Originally Posted by phangz View Post
    What's the level of difficulty to replace the OEM vents with the Audi TT? Would the dash bezel have to be removed? Looks very nice btw!
    The dash vents themselves will need to be modified to work. I've not personally done the work myself, but there are a few on here that have done it.

    The center dash bezel will need to come out to get to the center vents (they are screwed in place from the back). The entire dash surround needs to come out to get to the vent to the left of the steering wheel (also screwed in place from behind). I've never tried to access the one on the passenger side.
    2008 SRT-10 Coupe - Venom Red Metallic w/ White Stripes - 1/4 Mile Passes (YouTube)
    High Flow Cats | Gen 5 Intake Man. | UDP | HPT | 3.55s | MCS | DSS Axles | Nth Moto Clutch | 10.86 @ 130.66, 1.68 60' (+1,344 ft DA, w/ 3.55s & Hoosier Drag Radials)

  5. #30
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    Nothing to crazy, the Alpine head unit, the barrel shifter, but what I love is the oem graphite shifter and gauge surround, I was told it's rare for an '08 ACR......
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  6. #31
    Enthusiast Steve M's Avatar
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    Interior Disassembly - Basic Steps

    This is intended to help those folks that have never taken their interior apart. This is specifically geared toward those that are trying to get their dash panel trim out of the car, which you need to do if you intend to swap out the gauge cluster lamps for LEDs.

    You don't have to follow all of these steps, but I've found that skipping any of these steps adds a significant amount of risk of messing up the finish on the dash trim. Once that soft touch finish starts to peel, it won't stop. Don't say I didn't warn you. I've learned this lesson the hard way so you don't have to.

    Here are the basic steps, keeping in mind that some of this is going to be specific to coupes, but for the most part, what I write below should also apply to roadsters/convertibles.

    This will be followed by a couple more detailed posts with some pics that will hopefully help.

    1. Remove shifter console (you'll end up removing the shifter handle in the process)
    2. Remove the 4-gauge dash bezel
    3. Remove interior side sill trim pieces
    4. Remove seats
    5. Remove rear hatch side panels (coupe specific)
    6. Remove waterfall panel (behind the seats - what I show below will be coupe specific)
    7. Remove the side panel above the dead pedal
    8. Remove the knee bolster panel
    9. Remove steering column shroud
    10. Unbolt steering column so it can hang down
    11. Remove center console
    12. Remove dash panel trim
    13. Remove gauge clusters

    Tools needed:
    - 3/4" open end wrench
    - 3/16" Allen/hex wrench
    - 5/32" Allen/hex wrench
    - #2 screwdriver (a long one and a stubby one)
    - T-20 torx driver/bit
    - 13mm 6-point socket
    - 15mm 6-point socket

    Highly recommended:
    - Large towels to cover the door panels, side sills, and steering wheel when you pull the seats
    - Blue masking tape to cover anything you don't want scratched (like the 4-gauge cluster)
    - Trim removal tools (plastic preferably - a butter knife works in a pinch)
    Last edited by Steve M; 02-24-2022 at 11:12 PM.
    2008 SRT-10 Coupe - Venom Red Metallic w/ White Stripes - 1/4 Mile Passes (YouTube)
    High Flow Cats | Gen 5 Intake Man. | UDP | HPT | 3.55s | MCS | DSS Axles | Nth Moto Clutch | 10.86 @ 130.66, 1.68 60' (+1,344 ft DA, w/ 3.55s & Hoosier Drag Radials)

  7. #32
    Enthusiast Steve M's Avatar
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    1. Remove shifter console

    - Remove shifter trim ring (6x socket head cap screws - takes a 3/16" Allen/hex wrench)
    - Remove shifter handle (requires 3/4" open end wrench for the jam nut)
    - Pull up on e-brake handle
    - Pry up on the shifter console (see yellow arrows in the second pic below) - it is held in place with a handful of clips
    - Disconnect window switches and cigarette lighter/power outlet, and set the shifter console aside





    2. Remove the 4-gauge dash bezel

    - The dash bezel is held in place with 7 screws - 6 socket head cap screws that you can easily see (takes a 5/32" Allen/hex wrench), and 1 hidden screw that isn't revealed until you pull the shifter console (takes a #2 Phillps head screwdriver)
    - Pull the bezel out a bit, and disconnect the Engine Start button and the two connectors for the HVAC controls



    3. Remove interior side sill trim pieces

    - These are held in by clips - you just have to pull up on them, but it does take some force to get the clips to disengage



    4. Remove seats

    - The seats are held in place by two bolts in the front and two nuts in the rear (I think all take a 15mm 6-point socket - extensions help here)
    - Each seat has a connector underneath that needs to be disconnected. Look for a red tab that you have to pull out, then you should be able to press down on a tab to unhook them
    - For a coupe, you have to tilt the head rests towards the center of the car and pull the seat out of the car bottom first
    - Cover the door panels and side sills with large towels - the seats are heavy and awkward, and the seat tracks will do serious damage to your paint and/or trim if you start bumping them into things

    5. Remove rear hatch side panels (coupe specific)

    - These are held in place by a single screw, a push pin clip, a couple of spring clips, and some Velcro
    - To disconnect the push pin clip, push in on the center, and then pull out on the entire assembly
    - You should be able to see where the clips go in the pic below
    - There is a hidden screw on each side - you have to pull the door weather strip/seal back to reveal it on the upper part of the door frame





    6. Remove waterfall panel behind the seats - what I show below is coupe specific

    - Removing the waterfall panel makes getting the center console out much easier
    - For a coupe, the panel is held in by 6 Phillips head screws and 2 thumb screws (see pics below)
    - Unhook the rear fill speakers (if you still have them)
    - Getting the panel out is awkward - I highly recommend a second set of hands to help guide it out of the car (can go out either side)





    Optional: remove center subwoofer

    - This doesn't have to come out, but it does make it easier to remove the center console
    - It is held in place by two bolts and one nut
    - Don't forget to unhook the speaker wiring before pulling it out
    2008 SRT-10 Coupe - Venom Red Metallic w/ White Stripes - 1/4 Mile Passes (YouTube)
    High Flow Cats | Gen 5 Intake Man. | UDP | HPT | 3.55s | MCS | DSS Axles | Nth Moto Clutch | 10.86 @ 130.66, 1.68 60' (+1,344 ft DA, w/ 3.55s & Hoosier Drag Radials)

  8. #33
    Enthusiast Steve M's Avatar
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    7. Remove the side panel above the dead pedal

    - Removing this panel is critical to being able to get the knee bolster panel out easily
    - It is held in place by one screw (revealed after pulling the interior side sill trim pieces) and two Christmas-tree style push pins with large heads



    8. Remove the knee bolster panel

    - It is held in place by some clips and two Phillips head screws
    - Don't forget to disconnect the pedal adjustment switch



    9. Remove steering column shroud

    - This comes apart in two pieces (top/bottom), and is held together by two Phillips head screws along with some plastic tabs
    - The plastic tabs do take some force to get them to disengage - just keep messing with it and I promise it will come apart



    10. Unbolt steering column so it can hang down

    - This will make it 1,000x easier to get the dash panel trim out
    - The steering column is held up by two nuts (takes a 15mm 6-point socket if I recall correctly)
    - Once you remove the nuts, you can just let it hang there

    11. Remove center console

    - While it seems like overkill, removing the center console helps the dash panel trim come out so much easier
    - Removing the center console is why you had to remove the waterfall piece, which is why you had to remove the seats
    - It is held in place by 8 screws, 2 of which were removed when the waterfall panel came out
    - The two screws in front attach the center console to the dash trim

    2008 SRT-10 Coupe - Venom Red Metallic w/ White Stripes - 1/4 Mile Passes (YouTube)
    High Flow Cats | Gen 5 Intake Man. | UDP | HPT | 3.55s | MCS | DSS Axles | Nth Moto Clutch | 10.86 @ 130.66, 1.68 60' (+1,344 ft DA, w/ 3.55s & Hoosier Drag Radials)

  9. #34
    Enthusiast Steve M's Avatar
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    12. Remove dash panel trim

    - Everything leads up to this - take your time when pulling on this panel, especially if your car has sat out in the sun a lot, as it may be brittle
    - Make sure you have all the screws removed (5 total, 2 of which were removed when you took out the center console) before you start prying on things
    - You'll also need to unclip a small silver clip that holds part of the vehicle wiring harness to the dash trim (see pics below for where you should expect to find it)
    - I took a lot of pics of this part so you can understand where all of the screws and clips are that hold this piece in place
    - If you do end up breaking something, this piece can still be sourced (new OEM parts), but it ain't cheap (current as of 2/24/2022)

    Front:


    Back:


    Note the 3 screws (2 Phillips head, 1 T-20 torx) that were hidden by the knee bolster panel:


    Some close-up views:









    13. Remove gauge clusters

    - Now that all of that is out of the way, you should see a handful of Phillips head screws holding the two gauge clusters in place
    - You'll end up needing to disconnect a few wiring harness connectors - you don't have to keep track of which one goes where on each cluster because they can't be reversed

    And that's pretty much it. Clearly I've glossed over a few things, but you should be able to fill in any gaps I've left in these posts with some good old common sense.

    Random tip: I keep the screws/fasteners/clips for each subassembly in a separate plastic baggie so I don't lose any, and also so I can remember where they go. Taking the time to do this extra little step has served me well over the past few years, especially since a lot of my projects stretch out for weeks (and sometimes months).
    2008 SRT-10 Coupe - Venom Red Metallic w/ White Stripes - 1/4 Mile Passes (YouTube)
    High Flow Cats | Gen 5 Intake Man. | UDP | HPT | 3.55s | MCS | DSS Axles | Nth Moto Clutch | 10.86 @ 130.66, 1.68 60' (+1,344 ft DA, w/ 3.55s & Hoosier Drag Radials)

  10. #35
    awesome guide there! That will definitely help people and prevent them from breaking stuff.

  11. #36
    @Steve M...normally I would want to say...”hmmm, showing off,” but know you are the type that not only believes in not only doing things right (...super important, for the record), but suspect you are also the SAME guy who splits your PP&J Sandwich with that poor soul who got the liverwurst and pickle sandwich in their own lunchbox as well.

    Of course, my apologies to the audience, if we have any purveyors or lovers of the latter...was just trying to make a more colorful point or comparison here.

    Honestly...what a labor, and labor of #ViperLove with you breaking out this process - especially with this particular level of pictures, detail and the “do as I say...not as I do = ) “ warnings and learnings from being in the trenches.

    The worst part, is realizing that even with this, I will probably still get something totally wrong or break it. But thank goodness for the talents and mechanically inclined out there, that protect people like me...from people, well...like myself.

    (Note : I still have not wrapped my head around the guy who #made the a Viper and posted that journey in the Forum. Guess some of us may always be macaroni necklace makers or glue eaters. Go figure. And at least you did not have to document THAT either...LOL!)

    But honestly, I’m impressed, humbled and just appreciative for you doing ‘more’ somethings like this for VOA. It is now in the universe and others can learn, execute or benefit firsthand from it. Doesn’t get any better.

    Thank you again, Steve M, and let’s keep the thread going...sure there are lots more inspiring interiors out there!!!

  12. #37
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    Steve M

    "You must spread some Reputation around before giving it to Steve M again."

    LoL!

    Thank you so much Steve!

    Jay K.

  13. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Viper4Life View Post
    Thank you. Go right ahead! For reference, it cost me a total of $450 from a local guy when I lived up in Illinois.
    What was the name of the shop, please?

  14. #39
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    Is there anyone here that has completed the "Audi TT" vent modification able to provide a "how to" step-by-step for those who are interested in doing this? I've already purchased a set from ebay and waiting for it to be shipped. Thanks!

  15. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by phangz View Post
    Is there anyone here that has completed the "Audi TT" vent modification able to provide a "how to" step-by-step for those who are interested in doing this? I've already purchased a set from ebay and waiting for it to be shipped. Thanks!
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=thgU...LeI2F&index=94

  16. #41
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    Thank you very much @JGK95

  17. #42
    @viper4life…

    See it has been a couple months since you were last on.

    TOPIC : The A/C Vents (Audi-based).

    The video link that was (re)posted after this thread (thanks as always @Steve M), but had an interesting disclaimer from the gentleman that (originally) shot it, who mentioned that he ultimately had to cut the ENTIRE unit apart (sans the front and front facing parts that you adjust by hand) in order to have it sit flush and get air through it.

    Note : was NOT able to keep the back (air) diverter flap and 3 rolling mechanism…hence he could not use the ring to turn off air flow.

    Before I aimlessly cut into mine, but can you or someone who did this conversion ADVISE…that if you want vent flush (which would be most logical and looking stock), that you need to cut majority of back off.

    If you happen to have an image of what final fabrication looked like, that would be profoundly helpful.

  18. #43
    I know you partially answered in a later post, about something that may need it be “filed”, but a couple (additional) clarifying questions, so I do not order the wrong components.

    Is what we are looking at here via your posted image :

    - New Gen V a steering wheel
    - New Gen V Steering Wheel Bezel*
    - New Gen V Steering Wheel Cover
    - New Gen V Airbag

    (All appear to be procurable via Mopar Store still)

    Q1 = Did you or your fabricator ALSO fill-in the area that controls (normally) went into?

    Q2 = Is the shop around to discuss process in more detail, if we have another one local to us do?

    Hope a wonderful completed th holiday, and would love to crack this code on the steering wheel addition as the condition of my airbag module is not ideal, and cannot seem to track down replace, so perfect excuse to just upgrade like you!

  19. #44
    I just did the conversion to the Audi rings and I did have to cut the backs off in order for them to sit flush. That means the control knob does not function and it cannot be completely shut off. They do look a lo better then what was there originally and I can always put the original ones back in. Was hoping i could retain everything with the Audi setup but not possible. To big.

  20. #45
    Has anyone considered getting rid of that obtrusive handbrake and replacing it with a streetrod type electric emergency brake type setup.

    Certainly would clean up the center console.

    Cheers
    Greg

  21. #46

  22. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by prodiver View Post
    I just did the conversion to the Audi rings and I did have to cut the backs off in order for them to sit flush. That means the control knob does not function and it cannot be completely shut off. They do look a lo better then what was there originally and I can always put the original ones back in. Was hoping i could retain everything with the Audi setup but not possible. To big.
    It's interesting because I watched the video and they seemed to snap in without the whole back taken off. Was it an issue with airflow?

    Is it safe to assume that you can control the right/left and up/down part of the vent to adjust airflow direction, and that they fit snug after removing most of the back?

    Thanks
    Past Vipers: 1994 Red RT/10, 1998 Silver GTS, 2001 Yellow RT/10, 2003 Silver SRT-10

  23. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by Viper88 View Post
    Looks great!!! I need to find a set of those pieces to modify as I want to make sure to keep the OEM pieces untouched. Is that what you did? If so, where can I find them? I'll look around online... Thanks!
    Past Vipers: 1994 Red RT/10, 1998 Silver GTS, 2001 Yellow RT/10, 2003 Silver SRT-10

  24. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by Georgethedog View Post
    Looks great!!! I need to find a set of those pieces to modify as I want to make sure to keep the OEM pieces untouched. Is that what you did? If so, where can I find them? I'll look around online... Thanks!
    I have a used set. PM me if interested and make an offer.
    2017 ACR/TA in 2014 TA Header Orange, #4 of 10.
    2008 Vert in Viper Bright Blue with silver stripes.
    2014 GTS in white with gunmetal stripes. I'm also one of the original 100's

  25. #50
    I purchased a new set from the dealership. They are available


 
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