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  1. #1

    Help identifying noise from passenger side rear thoughts

    Hi Fellas,
    It seems I have picked up a bit of a noise in the right (passenger) side rear tire area. I’ve checked the axle shaft and it looks tight, both upper and lower ball joints have been greased, rotor hat to rotor ring bolt torque has been checked and is good, car has been holding rear alignment perfect - same measurements on the rack after several hundred miles, lug nut torque has been checked.. it makes this noise from a dead stop and if changing directions (going from forward to reverse). However, it will only do it once if starting from a dead stop going forward, then stopping, then going forward again (it wont make the noise on the second or third time going forward.. only inital movement from a stop in each direction). Rear axle mounting bushings looked good. Im out of ideas at the moment.. about 40k miles, daily driven, mostly highway to work and home.. no track time or abuse. Any of you all have any ideas? Thanks

    Video


  2. #2
    Enthusiast Lawineer's Avatar
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    Slack in drivetrain? That's kind of bizarre.
    2013 GTS- Black w/ Gunmetal stripes. DSC Tractive Coilovers, ACR sways, carbon stuff, big wing
    2014 BRZ: Race/track car. Full retarded. 2016 Lexus GX460: Full boring

  3. #3
    I thought maybe at first.. but its only on the passenger side rear outer (wheel) area. And its not just one click but two clicks in succession.. im thinking now maybe worn upper or lower ball joint that takes quite some force to make it click initally and then it almost instantly slides back to position (which is the second click - and why its hoplding the rear alignment)? But this is all guessing.. if i jack the rear wheel off the ground from the rear jack point on the frame (in front of rear tire) and grab the tire at the 12 and 6 o’clock positions i dont get any play… hoping im not the first with this issue. Ha
    Last edited by SRT_BluByU; 10-02-2021 at 02:17 PM.

  4. #4
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    I had a similar issue (https://driveviper.com/forums/thread...ng-off-the-gas). I wasn’t able to ever definitively nail down what it was but tightening the lug nuts temporarily fixes it. I’ve put about 8k miles on mine since it developed and haven’t had any further issues.
    2013 Viper GTS - GTS Blue
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  5. #5
    E Brake dragging? On my 2003 years ago, I had a click click like that. Never had it on my 2013, as I almost never used the e brake.
    2013 Dodge Viper SRT Track Pack Adrenaline Red
    2016 Dodge Ram 1500 Bighorn Quad Cab 5.7L 4x4 Blue Streak Pearl

  6. #6
    Hmm. Didnt check that.


    Edit - engaged the parking brake and put it in gear to slightly load driveline in both directions. Still made the clunk. I think that rules out the p-brake… bummer. Frustrating…
    Last edited by SRT_BluByU; 10-02-2021 at 09:00 PM.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by SRT_BluByU View Post
    Hi Fellas,
    It seems I have picked up a bit of a noise in the right (passenger) side rear tire area. I’ve checked the axle shaft and it looks tight, both upper and lower ball joints have been greased, rotor hat to rotor ring bolt torque has been checked and is good, car has been holding rear alignment perfect - same measurements on the rack after several hundred miles, lug nut torque has been checked.. it makes this noise from a dead stop and if changing directions (going from forward to reverse). However, it will only do it once if starting from a dead stop going forward, then stopping, then going forward again (it wont make the noise on the second or third time going forward.. only inital movement from a stop in each direction). Rear axle mounting bushings looked good. Im out of ideas at the moment.. about 40k miles, daily driven, mostly highway to work and home.. no track time or abuse. Any of you all have any ideas? Thanks

    Video

    100% bad ball joints, promise you that is it. Had this exact same things and took forever to figure it out.
    Formerly Had - 2003 Viper SRT 10 black/black, 2013 LE #120, 2014 Carbon TA (#47/50, 1 of 10 TA's)
    2014 Jeep SRT8, 2015 Cadillac Escalade. 2016 ACR-E Anodized Carbon

  8. #8
    Was it the upper, lower or both? Did you end up replacing the upper control arm assembly (or rear knuckle if it was the lower) or do they sell the ball joints separate to screw / press in?

  9. #9
    Enthusiast Docmartin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SRT_BluByU View Post
    Was it the upper, lower or both? Did you end up replacing the upper control arm assembly (or rear knuckle if it was the lower) or do they sell the ball joints separate to screw / press in?
    I've been following this since I suspect I may be replacing some of these at some point. I did a search on some of the parts websites and I called a local dealership this morning. They could see a separate ball joint sold separately for the front lower control arms, but the front upper and the rears are all sold as a control arm assembly. PITA!

    Hopefully someone with more experience will chime in.

  10. #10
    I did some looking this weekend and it looked like rear upper is over +$350 for the control arm ball joint assembly.. and the lower was part of the rear knuckle at something like +$2400... for the use this car has on pretty smooth southern roads im surprised it could be a ball joint.. seems like they would be tougher than that.. but maybe not. hopefully this isnt what it is..

    Has anyone else had experiance with this noise or the rear Gen V ball joint assemblies?

  11. #11
    Enthusiast Lawineer's Avatar
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    I've never done one, or priced one, but that seems insane. $2400? Can you not just replace the ball joint? You have to replace the whole knuckle?
    2013 GTS- Black w/ Gunmetal stripes. DSC Tractive Coilovers, ACR sways, carbon stuff, big wing
    2014 BRZ: Race/track car. Full retarded. 2016 Lexus GX460: Full boring

  12. #12
    Yup..


    Update: following the service manual to the letter to check ball joints … no play whatsoever. Seems thats not the issue (thankfully). But now back to unknown.. shit

    Next going to check torque spec on hub assembly to knuckle.

  13. #13
    Enthusiast Docmartin's Avatar
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    Welp... please keep us posted. I'll do the same since I joined the club.


  14. #14
    Very interesting? What year and mileage? Looks like a TA?

  15. #15
    Enthusiast Docmartin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SRT_BluByU View Post
    Very interesting? What year and mileage? Looks like a TA?
    2014 Base with 28k miles.

    I've known for awhile that I need to grease the ball joints and I kept putting it off while still driving around a fair bit... shame on me. Noticed the clicking for the first time last night. Tracked it down to the right rear like yours today.

  16. #16
    Mine Pops too when I take off from a dead stop. I have not tried the reverse and back forward to see if it pops but sounds just like that every time I take off from a dead stop. I am going to try retorquing the lugs this weekend. 2014 Carbon TA about 17k miles

  17. #17
    Enthusiast GTS Dean's Avatar
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    Are the rear discs floating, or bolted? There could be just a little bit of brake pad drag that causes the disc to 'pop' when changing direction, or from rest to movement.
    96 GTS. Viper Days Modified Class. Fresh motor 10-2020!

  18. #18
    Alright ladies (don't get defensive....just breaking balls).... Try going into the settings menu/safety & driving assistance settings and uncheck hill start assist. Report back.



    hillstart.jpg

  19. #19
    Update: Upper control arm bolts to frame were loose seems to be the problem. Might be worth a check for you other fellas. Hope this helps.

    UPDATE TO THE UPDATE - THAT WAS NOT THE SOURCE OF THE CLICKING... THE HUNT CONTINUES
    Last edited by SRT_BluByU; 10-12-2021 at 05:44 PM.

  20. #20
    Enthusiast Docmartin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gen5snake View Post
    Alright ladies (don't get defensive....just breaking balls).... Try going into the settings menu/safety & driving assistance settings and uncheck hill start assist. Report back.



    hillstart.jpg

    Lol this has been turned off since I got the car day 1 but I did confirm... man I wish that had been the issue.

    Quote Originally Posted by SRT_BluByU View Post
    Update: Upper control arm bolts to frame were loose seems to be the problem. Might be worth a check for you other fellas. Hope this helps.

    UPDATE TO THE UPDATE - THAT WAS NOT THE SOURCE OF THE CLICKING... THE HUNT CONTINUES
    Damn that sucks.

    I've been out of town and also very sick so I haven't driven the car. I did take the car in after I found a dealer with a tech that I trust/like. The story of my car just keeps getting worse and worse. I've been uncovering lots of little things since I've got it in July and had only been under the front of the car thus far.

    carfax bullshit.JPG

    This is bullshit... my car was in an accident. It clearly went off the road and up onto something. Viper tech figured out that the hood isn't original. Car had sat outside without hood on for a period of time. Bent front rims. Driver side of the car damage underneath. Looks like a fucking wave underneath although frame is fine and exhaust seems fine. Someone either repeatedly jacked the car up without using the proper jacking points and dented the hell out of the car or was legit trying to fix the body damage this way. Bolts underneath stretched out. The side skirt was legit cut around a stripped bolt so it could be removed. The tow truck driver hooked up to both rear lower control arms and marred them when pulling the car out. So many bolts missing all over the car. Rear diff drain bolt 50% backed out and covered with something. Random loose bolts. I can't believe this shit was missed in the PPI (bought the car virtually) and by the first tech that worked on my car in the area (that guy underfilled my oil by 2.5 qts). The guys I'm working with now took me back and let me look at the car and it is pretty obvious that the car has been through some shit. /rant

    Anyways... the tech tightened up bolts, greased up the ball joints, and changed the rear diff fluid. As of today I haven't noticed the popping noise. I've done a lot of digging on this and it seems relatively common. The three most common causes I've read about are the splines slipping/popping in the wheel hub (I think this was a gen 1 thread from another forum), dry/shitty ball joints, and something about the wheel stud holes stretching a bit?? (I don't fully recall that issue properly but others dealt with it).
    Last edited by Docmartin; 10-15-2021 at 05:31 PM.

  21. #21
    Enthusiast StrokerAce's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Docmartin View Post
    Lol this has been turned off since I got the car day 1 but I did confirm... man I wish that had been the issue.



    Damn that sucks.

    I've been out of town and also very sick so I haven't driven the car. I did take the car in after I found a dealer with a tech that I trust/like. The story of my car just keeps getting worse and worse. I've been uncovering lots of little things since I've got it in July and had only been under the front of the car thus far.

    carfax bullshit.JPG

    This is bullshit... my car was in an accident. It clearly went off the road and up onto something. Viper tech figured out that the hood isn't original. Car had sat outside without hood on for a period of time. Bent front rims. Driver side of the car damage underneath. Looks like a fucking wave underneath although frame is fine and exhaust seems fine. Someone either repeatedly jacked the car up without using the proper jacking points and dented the hell out of the car or was legit trying to fix the body damage this way. Bolts underneath stretched out. The side skirt was legit cut around a stripped bolt so it could be removed. The tow truck driver hooked up to both rear lower control arms and marred them when pulling the car out. So many bolts missing all over the car. Rear diff drain bolt 50% backed out and covered with something. Random loose bolts. I can't believe this shit was missed in the PPI (bought the car virtually) and by the first tech that worked on my car in the area (that guy underfilled my oil by 2.5 qts). The guys I'm working with now took me back and let me look at the car and it is pretty obvious that the car has been through some shit. /rant

    Anyways... the tech tightened up bolts, greased up the ball joints, and changed the rear diff fluid. As of today I haven't noticed the popping noise. I've done a lot of digging on this and it seems relatively common. The three most common causes I've read about are the splines slipping/popping in the wheel hub (I think this was a gen 1 thread from another forum), dry/shitty ball joints, and something about the wheel stud holes stretching a bit?? (I don't fully recall that issue properly but others dealt with it).

    Wow. I'm sorry for your issues.
    2013 GTS
    2018 RAM 1500 4x4
    1999 Camaro SS

  22. #22
    Enthusiast Docmartin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by StrokerAce View Post
    Wow. I'm sorry for your issues.
    Thanks man. There's other dumb shit that I didn't list. Too much to keep track off and didn't mean to thread jack. Love the car and it's worth it to get it buttoned up slowly but surely.

    Good luck tracking the clicking noise down. I'm betting ball joints...

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by SRT_BluByU View Post
    Was it the upper, lower or both? Did you end up replacing the upper control arm assembly (or rear knuckle if it was the lower) or do they sell the ball joints separate to screw / press in?
    Lower ball joints. About $20-30 bucks per ball joint. No need to replace the entire assembly.
    Formerly Had - 2003 Viper SRT 10 black/black, 2013 LE #120, 2014 Carbon TA (#47/50, 1 of 10 TA's)
    2014 Jeep SRT8, 2015 Cadillac Escalade. 2016 ACR-E Anodized Carbon

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by SRT_BluByU View Post
    Yup..


    Update: following the service manual to the letter to check ball joints … no play whatsoever. Seems thats not the issue (thankfully). But now back to unknown.. shit

    Next going to check torque spec on hub assembly to knuckle.
    We torqued things down and re lubed the assembly. Once we replaced the ball joints noise went away. Cheap fix....
    Formerly Had - 2003 Viper SRT 10 black/black, 2013 LE #120, 2014 Carbon TA (#47/50, 1 of 10 TA's)
    2014 Jeep SRT8, 2015 Cadillac Escalade. 2016 ACR-E Anodized Carbon

  25. #25
    Enthusiast Docmartin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by docwviper View Post
    Lower ball joints. About $20-30 bucks per ball joint. No need to replace the entire assembly.
    Did you replace the front lowers? Those are the only ones I can find sold as separate parts. The front uppers and both rears I only see as part of a control arm or knuckle. The dodge parts department I called reported the same.


 
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