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  1. #1
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    Question Help with stabilizer bar boot

    Hello All,
    I am assuming this is some form of stabilizer bar. Regardless, the boot is torn.
    I would like to get it replaced/repaired.

    Does anyone know if it can be repaired or does the entire bar with boot need replaced?
    Second, where is the best place to source whatever part(s) is needed?

    Thanks!IMG_5756.jpg

  2. #2
    Enthusiast SA Heat's Avatar
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    Those are your sway bar end links. You can pay a lot for the OEM or adjustable aftermarket links or get these....

    Moog
    K750254 (fronts)
    K750518 (rears)

    Very easy replacement if you have the tools and a way to get the car in the air.
    Last edited by SA Heat; 06-11-2022 at 03:35 PM.
    2009 Viper Red ACR w/stripe delete & black/red interior (1 of 1)
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  3. #3
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    Thanks SA! I really appreciate the info!

    Wow, $25 ea at Wally World! That is my kind of price.
    I think I'll order a set this evening. It looks like an easy swap out. I feared the worst regarding OEM prices. That is a bonus since the car only has 3,955 miles on it and I didn't plan on replacing things already.

    I have a portable lift and plenty of tools. So, I should have no issues when the replacements arrive.
    Last edited by jpmst3; 06-11-2022 at 04:33 PM.

  4. #4
    Enthusiast SA Heat's Avatar
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    Yeah, those OEM boots turn to crap way too early.

    You're going to need a joint separator and probably a little light hammering to get the links to break loose (don't go crazy!). This is what I used from Harbor Freight and it worked perfectly....

    https://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-qu...oint+separator
    2009 Viper Red ACR w/stripe delete & black/red interior (1 of 1)
    1997 b/w GTS....sold
    2005 Mitsubishi Evolution VIII, not stock

  5. #5
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    More excellent advice!

    I didn't realize they would need to be forced out. I assumed they were just bolted and not pressed at all.
    I will pick one of those up tomorrow, they are showing in stock locally.

    I am glad you elaborated on the procedure or I would have been pulling my hair out. Now, I will be much more prepared. Thanks!

  6. #6
    Enthusiast GTS Dean's Avatar
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    Actually, as long as the suspension is unloaded, you can knock the studs out with a few modest licks from a hammer and punch. Or, just back the nuts off to the end and hit them with the hammer. Loosen the upper links first, then the lowers.
    Last edited by GTS Dean; 06-11-2022 at 05:03 PM.
    96 GTS. Viper Days Modified Class. Fresh motor 10-2020!

  7. #7
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    OK, I will try that GTS. I can always return the tool if not needed.

    The suspension will be unloaded. I am hoping the low miles make things easier to get out.

    Thanks for the tip!
    Last edited by jpmst3; 06-11-2022 at 05:11 PM.

  8. #8
    Enthusiast SA Heat's Avatar
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    Another thing, if you go with the Moogs your studs on the front are likely going to be a lot longer than stock if they haven't changed the design in the last couple of years. You'll probably want to cut some of it off, especially on the bottom. You'll see what I mean when you get them on.
    2009 Viper Red ACR w/stripe delete & black/red interior (1 of 1)
    1997 b/w GTS....sold
    2005 Mitsubishi Evolution VIII, not stock

  9. #9
    Enthusiast SA Heat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GTS Dean View Post
    Actually, as long as the suspension is unloaded, you can knock the studs out with a few modest licks from a hammer and punch. Or, just back the nuts off to the end and hit them with the hammer. Loosen the upper links first, then the lowers.
    Mine wouldn't budge on the control arm side.....mind you, I probably wasn't applying the proper amount of modest. Mechanical sympathy and all that :-).
    Last edited by SA Heat; 06-11-2022 at 08:40 PM.
    2009 Viper Red ACR w/stripe delete & black/red interior (1 of 1)
    1997 b/w GTS....sold
    2005 Mitsubishi Evolution VIII, not stock

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by SA Heat View Post
    Another thing, if you go with the Moogs your studs on the front are likely going to be a lot longer than stock if they haven't changed the design in the last couple of years. You'll probably want to cut some of it off, especially on the bottom. You'll see what I mean when you get them on.
    I did notice that the studs did seem longer than OEM based on the online photos. I was thinking that very thing, cutting may be in order.

  11. #11
    Enthusiast GTS Dean's Avatar
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    When you get the new ones ready to install, hit the tapers with a light, even coat of never-seize and torque to spec.
    96 GTS. Viper Days Modified Class. Fresh motor 10-2020!

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by jpmst3 View Post
    Does anyone know if it can be repaired or does the entire bar with boot need replaced?
    Second, where is the best place to source whatever part(s) is needed?
    https://www.suspension.com/universal-dust-boots.asp

    https://www.energysuspensionparts.co...dust-boots.asp

    Also, there is a Euro supplier on eBay , search:
    Tie Rod Dust Boots
    Last edited by AZTVR; 06-12-2022 at 06:08 AM.
    Jim

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by AZTVR View Post
    Damn, I should have though to search for just the boots. Although, if they need torn out to replace the boots, it is probably easier to just replace the entire thing for $25 ea.
    However, I might get a couple and repair the OEM ends just to hang onto. It will be much easier to mess with them when they don't need to go back on the car right away.

    Thanks AZ!

  14. #14
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    Thanks again for those that quickly came to my aid by posting great information in this thread/request.

    I finally to around to replacing the end links with the Moog model. It was pretty simple. However, I could not get them out easily with brute force. So, I opted for the Harbor Freight ball joint separator and it was $20 well spent. I got them separated in less than 30 seconds per side. With the vehicle a foot off of the floor, I used a floor jack and a block of wood to push the stabilizer bar up enough to get the OEM link out. As predicted, the threaded ends were longer and I opted to cut them to closely match the OEM part. All in all about an hour spent leisurely doing the replacement.

    THANKS!


 

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