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  1. #1
    Enthusiast St.Char's Avatar
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    "Stock Coilover Removal on Gen 3"

    Hi Everyone! Removed and replaced my stock coilovers on my Gen 3 this weekend. I did this with the help and advice of a few members on this forum, however, I didn't have any pictures to go with the removal or install of the new ones...so I took some along the way so that maybe others may benefit from my experience.

    I am not a certified mechanic, nor do I suggest that this may be the only method that will work for you, so I take no responsibility for the outcome and results of others, however this DIY may in fact give you some idea what to look for when doing your own removal and install.

    Lets get started...

    * I began by loosening up the lugs on all four wheels, then proceeded to get my car lifted up with my floor jack and placed 4 jacks stands underneath, one on each of the 4 corners.

    * Once I was confident that the car was level and save sitting on the jack stands, I removed all 4 wheels to access the stock coilovers.

    * I choose to start in the front. If you are not going to do all 4 coilovers at the same time, I found it helpful to do at least 2 at a time, I started in the front and began by removing the top bolt of the coilover first, which side you begin on is up to you. By removing the top bolt first, this will allow the coilover to have a little wiggle room when you are ready to remove the bottom bolt.

    * Here is a pic of what the top bolt of the coliover looks like, this is the rear coilover, however the front and rear look the same at the top.


    * Once you get the top bolt out, proceed to the bottom. The bottom bolt is a little more challenging because the end link to the sway bar is in the way. In the pic below, you can see where the head of the bottom bolt is facing the end link, you will need to unbolt this end link that connects to the sway bar so you can move the end link out of the way to access and remove the bolt. Remove the nut that you see on top of the end of the sway bar, this will allow the sway bar to swing up and out of the way. ***Please note that it is important to remove both nuts on the left and right end of the sway bar before attempting to release it***


    * Once the nut is removed on both sides of the sway bar, swing it up and out of the way, see pic below. Now the end link will easily tilt out of the way and allow you to easily remove the bottom bolt on the coilover.


    * I had a little difficulty getting the sway bar to release from the end link once the nut was removed, so I placed my floor jack underneath the bar and placed the head of my rubber mallet on the jack, so that the stock of the mallet was facing up and placed the end of the mallet against the sway bar. Then very slowly, I began jacking up the mallet, the pressure released the sway bar and "presto" problem solved!


    * The new coilovers I installed are from BC Racing. I installed them starting at the top and finishing with the bottom bolt, however when I installed the bottom bolt, I turned it around so that the head of the bolt was facing the opposite way than it did when I removed it, this way I won't have to remove the end sway bar link if I want to change them out later. **The new coilover install was much easier and faster
    than the removal.**


    Now you're ready to move to the back...

    * I started with the bottom bolt in the back, this gave me some wiggle room at the top. The bolt at the top sits somewhat receded between the 2 fender wheel well liners making it a little challenging to access and remove. I left them in on one side and removed them on the other just to have better bolt access.

    * Once you get the top bolt out you will find it difficult to remove the coilover. So...in the pic below you will see 4 screws that fasten the front portion of the wheel liner in place with the rear, remove those 4 screws.


    * Once the screws are removed, pull back the rear liner to reveal a round rubber grommet, simply pull it out with your hand. Now take the top of the coilover and lift it up into the hole, this will allow you to pull the bottom portion of the coilover toward you and completely remove.


    * I installed the new one by starting with the top bolt, this allowed me to swing the fork forward and line up the bolt holes.


    * If you are installing the BC coilovers, please refer to the manufacturers instructions before attempting to make any adjustments. If you are wondering what might be a good starting point for adjustment, this is what I used. There is 1" between the spanner nuts on both the front and rear of my car. This gave me 26" from the ground to the bottom portion of the fender lip (centered with the wheel) in the front and measured while standing beside the car. I did the same procedure for the rear and measured 27.5" from the ground to the center of the bottom lip of the fender. These measurements may not work for you and probably are not accurate for track use, so use at your discretion. The BC coilovers have 30 settings between a soft and hard ride. It may take you a few test drives before you are comfortable with the settings. Mine are set at 15 clicks from soft to hard in both front and back.


    * Once you have your ride height and rebound settings where you want them, you are now ready for an alignment...Good Luck!
    Last edited by St.Char; 04-14-2015 at 11:58 AM.

  2. #2
    Enthusiast
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    Nice! Hows the ride?

  3. #3
    Enthusiast St.Char's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by river rat View Post
    Nice! Hows the ride?
    Thanks! The ride feels awesome, it's like the car is now really planted to the ground and more responsive.

  4. #4
    Beautiful
    Past: 2006 First Edition SRT-10 Viper Blue #56/200
    Current: 2014 Viper GTS Blue Pearl

  5. #5
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    ViperPete's Avatar
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    Amazing stance.

    Thanks for the write up.
    2013 Viper GTS Blue (no stripes!) with Sepia interior- only 4 made! WannaGOfast 1/2 MILE BEST OF 157.89 mph @ 600WHP
    2005 SRT10 Ram- lowered, T56 conversion, B&B longtubes, many other upgrades (my daily)
    1969 Mustang Fastback- 1973 Lincoln Mark IV- 1999 Avenger 3.8L - 2005 Mustang GT - 2020 Dodge Charger Hellcat Widebody

  6. #6
    Just installed a set of bc coilovers. Was messing around with the preload adjustment, not really knowing what I was doing. Anyone have the measurements of their spring compression from the top of the spring to the bottom? My front springs measure 6" and my rear 7".

    IMG_1916.jpg

    I figured it out with 5mm of preload. Thanks St. Char for the write up, it helped a lot.
    Last edited by jjhammer; 10-02-2016 at 08:21 AM.

  7. #7
    Just wanted to say thanks for this little write-up. Helped me get some BC's installed pretty quickly.
    Time to figure out preload and ride height!

  8. #8
    Enthusiast Fatman2006's Avatar
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    How much preload did you guys go with?

  9. #9
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    Looking for some tips on other who have installed coilovers themselves. As per @st.char above i too am having one hell of a time trying to release the end link from the sway bar. Both drive & passenger side bolts are removed. I've used the mallet tip above and i have even jacked up the arm on one side to see if the other would release and still nothing. I have sprayed them with some PB blaster and will give it a try tomorrow again. Would I be better removing the bottom bolt from the end link and trying to lift it out together or would that simply bend the link or ruins he thread. If you have any tips please share.

  10. #10
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    You can try using a pry bar ont eh top of the shock to work it out of position.

  11. #11
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    So finally got all coilover in. The way I got the sway bar to release was similar to above but i put pressure on both sides of the sway bar by lowering the car slowly and the a couple of stern taps with a mallet and bingo. The rest was super easy. Thanks again for a great post

  12. #12
    I'm in the same boat as above, I cannot get the sway bar end links to break free on the fronts

    I tried everything , jacking up the sway bar from below , while hammering the bolt downwards, tried oiling it , tried heating with a torch, thing won't budge

    Anyone have any ideas ?

    Thanks

  13. #13
    VOA Member
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    Steve M's Avatar
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    Have you tried one of these?

    https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

    You could also try smacking the sway bar with a brass/copper hammer, but you might damage the end link rubber boot.
    2008 SRT-10 Coupe - Venom Red Metallic w/ White Stripes - 1/4 Mile Passes (YouTube)
    High Flow Cats | Gen 5 Intake Manifold | UDP | HPTuners | 3.55s | MCS | DSS Axles | McLeod RST | 11.027 @ 130.06 (Vid), 1.78 60' (+1,622 ft DA, w/ 3.55s & Hoosier Drag Radials)

  14. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by Steve M View Post
    Have you tried one of these?

    https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

    You could also try smacking the sway bar with a brass/copper hammer, but you might damage the end link rubber boot.

    No.i haven't, but thanks for the idea I think I can get one of those tomorrow close by

    I tried alot of hammering, I'l go back at it tomorrow

  15. #15
    Steve , thanks for the advice, I picked up one of these ( actually 4 of them in various sizes but this is the one that worked)

    I used it on the lower bolt for the sway bar end link

    Got my two front coilovers installed, will do the rears tomorrow20210904_202936.jpg

  16. #16
    VOA Member
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    Steve M's Avatar
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    Awesome...thanks for following up, and for the tool recommendation.
    2008 SRT-10 Coupe - Venom Red Metallic w/ White Stripes - 1/4 Mile Passes (YouTube)
    High Flow Cats | Gen 5 Intake Manifold | UDP | HPTuners | 3.55s | MCS | DSS Axles | McLeod RST | 11.027 @ 130.06 (Vid), 1.78 60' (+1,622 ft DA, w/ 3.55s & Hoosier Drag Radials)

  17. #17
    No problem, I forgot to mention the tool won't work unless you grind down the bolt head to either flat or preferably a concave shape

    It comes with a rounded tip and it just slides off the control arm bolt everytime


 

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