Home Forums Tire , Wheel, Brake and Suspension Alignment Questions

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    • Shannon Whitehead
      Keymaster
      Post count: 274799

      Interesting, I never knew the rear toe would be anything but zero. Good thing I’m not a mechanic.

    • XSnake
      Member
      Post count: 2515

      I think I pay around $120 at the dealership.

    • Shannon Whitehead
      Keymaster
      Post count: 274799

      sparkrn said:
      Interesting, I never knew the rear toe would be anything but zero. Good thing I'm not a mechanic.

      Rear toe in adds stability. When the tail is wagging out, the loaded outside tire is actually pointing the rear end back in line by a hair. From what I understand, drift cars have quite a bit of toe in, and use the brakes (biased to the front) to get the rear to stay out, NOT the throttle.

    • Shannon Whitehead
      Keymaster
      Post count: 274799

      If the dealership just has their regular every car close (with in spec) but not perfect Tech do it then it will be cheaper, we have the actual Viper Tech (3X the pay per hour or more) do all of our alignments (perfect) so we are at $200 for the regular 4 wheel alignments unless everything looks good and we just set the toe or something then I charge hardly anything.

      The_Greg said:
      Is the Viper anything special to get aligned, or if I trust a local maintenance shop, would they be able to handle it?

      I was quoted $200 for an alignment from a trusted Dodge dealer. Not the end of the world but I thought it would be less?

      I'll likely be requesting a setup similar to Mark J's street recommendation (from this thread: http://driveviper.com/forums/threads/5177-Alignments-Chrysler-Dealers?highlight=alignment )

      Front camber -1.6 to -1.7
      Rear camber -.6 to -.8
      Front toe set at 0
      Rear toe "in" .17 to .20 each side, the more toe the more stable.
      Front castor I like 5.5 to 6.0
      Rear castor I keep the stock setting by adjusting the 2 lower control arm adjustments the exact same amount when setting camber.

    • Dr.Ron
      Member
      Post count: 868

      You won’t notice a thing Zee!

      Ron

    • GTS Dean
      Member
      Post count: 1839

      You aren’t loading the tires up enough in the corners to need that much negative camber. 1/2 degree less negative would probably be a good start. Check your rears too while you’re at it.

    • darbgnik
      Member
      Post count: 1682

      GTS specs are still fine for occasional track days. The TA alignment will help immensely with front tire wear if you track a lot, but not necessary in your case. I put the TA alignment on my car at delivery, but it spends as much time on the track as street driving for me……

    • zee
      Member
      Post count: 890

      Thanks for the help guys. I was planning on setting the camber at -1.4 as someone suggested in another thread since the TA camber is at -2.4 currently. Anything else I should tell my alignment guy?

    • GTS Dean
      Member
      Post count: 1839

      Don’t loosen the adjuster bolt lock nuts too much. Some techs carelessly get the cams outside the stop tabs and bend them.

    • Shannon Whitehead
      Keymaster
      Post count: 274799

      Is the Viper anything special to get aligned, or if I trust a local maintenance shop, would they be able to handle it?

      I was quoted $200 for an alignment from a trusted Dodge dealer. Not the end of the world but I thought it would be less?

      I’ll likely be requesting a setup similar to Mark J’s street recommendation (from this thread: http://driveviper.com/forums/threads/5177-Alignments-Chrysler-Dealers?highlight=alignment )

      Front camber -1.6 to -1.7
      Rear camber -.6 to -.8
      Front toe set at 0
      Rear toe “in” .17 to .20 each side, the more toe the more stable.
      Front castor I like 5.5 to 6.0
      Rear castor I keep the stock setting by adjusting the 2 lower control arm adjustments the exact same amount when setting camber.

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