Home › Forums › Tire , Wheel, Brake and Suspension › Gen V Viper Exchange Big Brake Kit Weights
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If you drive fairly hard you will want to replace those stock pads with something harder, Andy has some SPF pads that work well at the track. I glazed those stock pads in less than three laps.
Richard
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Dusty1 said:
If you drive fairly hard you will want to replace those stock pads with something harder, Andy has some SPF pads that work well at the track. I glazed those stock pads in less than three laps.Richard
Good to know!!! Thanks for the tip!
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Just received my VE BBK kit from Andy. Should have them installed this Wednesday. Hoping to reuse the caliper studs for rear. Plan to use Raybestos ST47 all the way around and keep the stoptech pads for street use.
Can’t wait to get back out to the track to see if the increase disc size will be enough brake torque. -
sharmut said:
Just received my VE BBK kit from Andy. Should have them installed this Wednesday. Hoping to reuse the caliper studs for rear. Plan to use Raybestos ST47 all the way around and keep the stoptech pads for street use.
Can't wait to get back out to the track to see if the increase disc size will be enough brake torque.The studs for the rear?
The BBK calipers come with a spacer plate and new hardware that’s bolts. Have you converted to studs or something?
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Recently installed this setup on my TA. Purchased through Andy Wheeler at Viper Exchange. Brake components manufactured by StopTech.
The kit comes with rotors, calipers, mounting hardware & brackets, pads, and SS lines.
Rear rotors stay the same setup (mostly). 355mm disc and four-piston calipers. Fronts increase disc diameter from 355mm to 380mm and calipers from four-piston to six-piston.
The fronts do fit inside a Sidewinder II, but there is literally 1mm of clearance between the caliper and the wheel. In fact, the FR wheel was scored a little bit by one of the caliper cross bolts on mine, so 0mm clearance. Prepare for rocks and rubber to get caught in that gap on the track.
Here’s the weights, per corner:
OE Front Setup – 32 pounds (forgot the mounting bolts in the photo, so maybe a few grams more)
VE Front Setup – 35 poundsOE Rear Setup – 34 pounds
VE Rear Setup – 28 poundsSo there’s a tidy six total pounds lost. Woo hoo! The brake pads were included in the weighing. The OE pads I removed were all at least 12mm thick, so I don’t consider there much offset there. The kit installed relatively painlessly, and could easily be done in a day.
So far, they are super quiet. Just make sure to follow the bedding-in procedure. Nice firm pedal too. I’ll report back after a track day.
2018-06-02-OEM-Front.jpg
2018-06-02-BBK-Front.jpg
2018-06-02-OEM-Rear.jpg
2018-06-02-BBK-Rear.jpg
BBK-Installed.jpgTips for Installation:
1) Remove the OE disc and caliper first. Don’t install the new rotor until you’ve installed the new brake lines, as you’ll want the room for reaching two wrenches in there. Unless you have a lift, in which case you can go jump in a lake.
2) All four corners have those horseshoe retainer clips on the brake lines. Remove all these, as you’ll appreciate having the wiggle room when installing the new SS line fittings.
3) The new front SS lines have a bracket that bolts to the car frame at slightly a different angle than the factory ones, so a mild tweaking of the solid steel lines is required. The bracket has an indexing tab on it to line the compression fitting up, and the new SS lines are side-specific. Remove the OE bracket and visually match the VE line to it. Otherwise, the fitting will be pointing 45° the wrong way. Mine were labeled wrong and it took me a minute to figure it out.
4) The golden nuts that clamp the front caliper to the new extension bracket will require you to back out caliper pin bolts to get a socket on them, as there is interference. I had to tap a socket on with a hammer to tighten them.
5) For the front SS lines, do yourself a favor and unplug the wheel speed sensor and move it out of the way. Just don’t forget to put it back.
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