Home › Forums › Gen III / Gen IV › Dyno’d the 2010 GTS… little bit let down…
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Id say get rid of that stock manifold to start. Maybe consider the Arrow PCM upgrade.
For a comparison (not apples to apples)My ’09 Chart-
Red- Stock
Blue Arrow PCM, Gen V intake with K&N drop in filter, Corsa exhaust (stock exhaust manifolds cats removed with 2 high flow cats/bullets installed)
Mix between 91 oct and 5 gallons or so of 110 oct. -
Welcome to the world of dynos…they are really only good at telling you before/after results, not absolute numbers.
How does the car run on the street?
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Steve M said:
Welcome to the world of dynos…they are really only good at telling you before/after results, not absolute numbers.How does the car run on the street?
Very true… the car feels awesome on the street, but really nothing to compare it to. Much faster than my old ’13 Taurus SHO, that’s for sure. Hahaha. The car is a blast, don’t get me wrong, just thought I’d see some bigger numbers.
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Well, if you ever find yourself around Dayton, we can set up a run with my tune-only car to show you how much faster yours is.
At least now you have a baseline for when you do additional mods.
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You could drive to another dyno in town and pick up 20hp. Every one is different. People that live by the final dyno number don’t understand the tool. Baseline and gain are what matter.
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FLATOUT said:
You could drive to another dyno in town and pick up 20hp. Every one is different. People that live by the final dyno number don't understand the tool. Baseline and gain are what matter.Very true. While I wanted to see the numbers, I also wanted the baseline before doing a Gen5 intake, UD pulley and new Arrow tune this winter. Next baseline will be a trip to the track too. 🙂
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That is why Dyno’s scare me. I get worried I will start chasing some idea or unobtainable number. Or I will never be happy cause someone else has a higher number than me. And so many things can effect dyno numbers. Ideally, you run the dyno, do the mod, run again to see your gains or even gains as a percentage. But even that may not be possible because you can’t get it done in the same day. Also, race teams know that dyno’s are a tool but what really matters is how the car runs. There are cars with less HP than ours that put up similar times. It’s all about the build.
Try not to let it burrow under your skin, cause that’s an expensive itch to scratch.
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Ninjazx, Nothing wrong with your results. I figured that set up was going to do 580/555, and thought the Arrow rebuild was worth 15/15. Dan Cragin estimated 580 and I’d bet he factored in some lift for the rebuild too.
I looked back at some of my old dyno’s as well as pictures of the boards from Dan Cragin’s dyno days.
Stock G4’s average about 525/500 on his dyno (which is conservative).
Headers/exhaust/ecu usually give 40/40 or a little more.
My viper ran 574/545 at one of Dan’s events, with a ported intake. (I had Dan’s intake, and another guy had Arrows 571/548) After Dan ported my heads I ran a 601/565
With a ported intake, (G5, Arrow, SPT) you might pick up another 15/10. To get to 600 you need to port the heads, or find a more generous dyno. Great looking Viper, good luck!! Mike
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So I honestly thought I would put down some better numbers than I did, but it is, what it is…. 565/540. This was on about 90% 100 Octane too. Mods are:
2010 GTS (Mtnbiker’s old car from Houston)
– Bellanger Headers
– Bellanger Cat’d Exhaust
– Mopar Stage 1 PCM
– Arrow forged pistons +.005
– ACR-X rods
– Arrow coated bearings
– Arrow rebuild… not a mod, but some have claimed better performance after the rebuild regardless of upgraded internals…Not sure if there was any type of setup on the dyno, or numbers they input to effect the final reading, but… one guy was staging the car on the dyno. After it was strapped down, bung in place and something attached to underneath the valve cover, another guy came over to actually run the dyno. He got up there, looked at something on the screen and I could hear him telling the first guy that he did something wrong. First one said something about measuring the wheelbase at 104, something, something, and the 2nd one said, dunno what to tell you, you did it wrong. Then he hopped in the car and ran it. Assuming it wasn’t anything that would effect the final numbers, but I’m not really sure what all gets thrown into the computer. Here’s the Dyno Sheet from the run:
Full res: https://www.dropbox.com/s/07nzixcoei82hho/2015-08-21%2016.34.34.jpg?dl=0
Any thoughts?
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