Home Forums Tire , Wheel, Brake and Suspension Slotted Drilled Rotors and Hawk Pads

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    • Special Ed
      Member
      Post count: 901

      What Gen? Slotted is fine. Drilled is ok. Slotted and drilled will most likely crack under harsh conditions such as tracking.

    • Bill Pemberton
      Participant
      Post count: 3768

      Partly agree with Special Ed , as slotted rotors are what you need , and drilled or drilled/slotted both suck. They will crack if you are an aggressive driver on the track. That said, if not tracking ( as Special Ed was more specific than I in stating tracking is an issue) you probably can get away using any of them. Tracking a Viper, slotted is the answer, sweet and simple.

    • Shannon Whitehead
      Keymaster
      Post count: 274799

      When asking advice, THE YEAR MATTERS. Within G2 there are 2 different rear brake tools: Non-ABS and ABS. Essential to retract piston correctly or damage can occur…..

      Slotted-Drilled are OK for street or drags….you wont get them hot enuf to damage/crack vs tracking temps. But any time you weaken a rotor by drilling it shortens the overall LONG life of OE Viper rotors. NOT A FACTOR in Street use. SEXY MATTERS !

      338LAI said:
      Hello,

      Before I install new pads do i need to compress the pistons for new thicker pads?

      Rears seem to be a little more trouble. I think to compress pistons they need to be screwed in clockwise while compressing? I bout a kit that I seen on here somewhere. It is from Autozone and cups look like they have spanners in the cups. Is this correct?

      Tnanks,

      Ray

    • 338LAI
      Member
      Post count: 41

      Have no plan for tracking or even racing. Just an old guy having fun with a couple of cool cars.

      Thanks for the help!

      Ray

    • Shannon Whitehead
      Keymaster
      Post count: 274799

      https://wiki.seloc.org/a/Brembo_Caliper

      All you need to know is here 🙂

      https://wiki.seloc.org/a/How_to_Rebuild_a_Brembo_Caliper

      Long nose pliers are fine for rotating the piston, but it will be stiff. Watch the thin rubber dust gaiters on the slider shaft, they tear real easy and are not cheap to replace!

    • Shannon Whitehead
      Keymaster
      Post count: 274799

      Hello,

      Finally got all my parts and installed for front suspension rebuild. I have a few questions about replacing front and rear brake pads.

      Before I install new pads do i need to compress the pistons for new thicker pads? Can they be pressed straight in to allow room for new ones?

      Rears seem to be a little more trouble. I think to compress pistons they need to be screwed in clockwise while compressing? I bout a kit that I seen on here somewhere. It is from Autozone and cups look like they have spanners in the cups. Is this correct?

      Any tips, videos or writeups would be very much appreciated!

      Tnanks,

      Ray

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