Home Forums Gen I / Gen II Battery change 1993.5 through 2002…forgot just how much fun it is !!

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    • Steve Fess
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      It’s been a couple of years since I  changed a battery on one of the above mentioned Vipers. Such fun !!

      Fortunately, I have not had this particular pleasure for a few years since I have switched our Vipers over to AGM batteries.

      For those who are new to the 1993.5 through 2002 Vipers, just be aware that it is behind the left rear wheel. It is not difficult to do, but not really fun either. It takes a few tools and there are a few tricks that will make this task quicker, easier, and safer.

      As I am currently out of time right now, if you need to do this, just call me. Sometime in the future I may write a little more.


      Tools for changing battery 1993.5 thru 2002 Vipers


      Yes, your battery is inboard of the left rear wheel…which must be removed to start this process.

      When buying a new battery, look at date of manufacture, ask to watch store test resting voltage, cold crank amps, and load test. Price point and length of “fully refundable” portion of warranty is important. Remember that AGM batteries do not leak. I ALWAYS fully charge the new battery on an appropriate charger before installation.

      1. Level ground…I put the Viper in 1st gear and apply parking brake.

      2. Wheel chock in front of passenger (right) front tire.

      3.  Low profile jack under the jack point in front of left rear wheel.

      4. Sturdy short jack stand…place under rear, left frame rail.

      5. 1992 thru 1998 hubcap removal tool (found in binder that holds owners manual. Small and medium blade screwdriver can be used…taking care not to mar the finish on the wheel.

      6. 19mm or 3/4″ socket…1/2″ drive.

      7.  Other sockets…8mm, 10mm, 11mm, 5/16″, and 1/2″. I use a 1/4″drive mini ratchet on the 8mm socket while the others take a 3/8″ ratchet with a 2 inch extension.

      8. V-notch pushpin remover (tack lifter)…or push pin pliers, blade screwdriver and needle nose pliers.

      9. Small drift punch or Phillips screwdrives ( to align 3 holes for push pin reinstallation on battery cover.

      10.  Mechanic’s wire…anything to tie positive leads up and out of the way to avoid damage to the small fuel pump lead when the weight of the battery surprises you. Negative terminal cable can be easily tucked behind strut on battery tray.

      11. Torque wrench for lug nuts.




      • This topic was modified 1 month, 1 week ago by Steve Fess.
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